This is a fairly easy procedure, although it does take a bit of patience and
the knowledge of how to use a simple electrical multi-meter.
Shut off your truck and let it sit for about 30 minutes (reason - some
electronic features have auto-shutdown after a set amount of time and you
want to make sure they are off). Open the fuse panel and remove one fuse.
Since this may require leaving the driver's door open remember to remove the
lightbulbs from the interior lights when you check that circuit. Place the
leads from the multimeter in-line between the contacts of the fuse and see
if there is any power flowing between the contacts. Note - a drain as small
as only a few tenths of an amp can kill a marginal battery overnight).
Repeat this procedure for every fuse until you locate which one(s) have
power flow. Don't forget to do the same to the fuses and relays in the
power center under the hood. From all of those, determine which ones are
supposed to have power flowing (like the power for your clock, etc.) and
which ones aren't (like an under-hood light - very common).
The other method is to remove the positive terminal from the battery and
place the leads from the meter between the battery and the clamp on the end
of the wire. Set the meter to read the current draw that is coming out of
the battery. Now pull each fuse in turn and see if the draw on the battery
drops. If you have a clamp-style meter that is sensative enough to read a
few tenths of an amp, then don't bother disconnecting the postive battery
lead and just clamp the meter around the positive wire instead. These
methods are best when you have two people - one to pull the fuses and the
other to read the meter.
Good luck - Jonathan
I take it you had the battery Checked... Load testing isnot fool proof!
look at your battery.. if the SIDE (Narrowist side) is bulging
outwards.. 9 time out of 10 it IS BAD !!!
We used this method Before The invention of LOAD TESTER ,, 1940's .
1950's and 1960's as well as the HYDROMETOR
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