Gurgling noise

(reply inline) Gurgling noise (Like the one you get after eating beans?)

Group: alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks Date: Sun, Oct 19, 2003, 8:05am From: snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net (Pat=A0Vickers) Ok, I have a good one

(A good one what?)

, replaced the radiatior in my 93 sub and now have a gurgling noise coming from the heater core,

(What did you feed it?)

thought it was the AC drain plugged but apparently not. (How did you figure that out?)

When you take a corner it sounds like you have a half full jug of water sloshing.

(your turning too hard and fast...Its the sound of your brain hitting your skull...No need to worrie)

I have tried to bleed the air out of it to no avail.

Any suggestions?. (do ya reall want to know?)

bnnv

Ill tell ya but first answer a few questions for me.. Now why did you change out your rad? Is your engine getting hot? Did you have this problem before? And are you loosing coolant?

Steve C

Get thee to Advance Auto/Checkers and pick up a Stant Lev'r cap. It has a lever on the top that makes burping the system much easier. Fire her up, let her get to operating temp (t-stat open) and pull the level and hold open for 10 seconds. Release the lever, let it run for another 1-2 minutes and pull the lever again. Repeat this until you stop getting air bubbles from where the overflow hose enters the expansion tank.

Doc

sounds like an air pocket in the coolant system.

let truck cool off.... open radiator cap... start engine turn on heat (both front and rear heat if equipped)..

monitor coolant level in radiator... let truck run until thermostat comes on.... make sure radiator is full... fill overflow tank to proper level... replace radiator cap.

...and make sure you turn the heater on(hot/cold to HOT) too:-)

Don

You've never done this before have you? Coolant expands as it heats. You can't leave the cap off the rad for more than a few minutes after starting as the coolant will puke everywhere as it expands and overflows out of the radiator. Plus, t-stats don't "come-on", they OPEN.

Doc

I would not say to do something that I've not done before.

You can play symantecs with my words.... does it matter how the thermostat operates??? does it open, does it actuate, does it move...etc Yea the bottom line is that a thermostat generally speaking is either closed or open. You can say its closed or open or use other words to describe the same thing.

if you don't have the radiator full to the very top and the engine is cool you generally dont have the problem of "puking"...

JUSTan FYI I've actually worked as a mechanic I'm not out to point out mistakes by others here... just offering a little helpful advice to someone who appears not to know much about vehicles.

Yes I've done "this" many times... yes sometimes you'll have problems with excess coolant... but by letting the engine run until the thermostat opens and the radiator cap is off you get rid of air pockets and verify thermostat operation and you don't have to second guess that problem again.

there are different ways to accomplish the same thing...what I described is what I do... You may approve or may not, that's your choice.

Damn. Is that you Dean??? LOL

Don

Antivirus???

Don,

Dean? Not hardly. Your attempt at humor has failed to make me laugh. If I knew you personally, I'd break your goddamn nose for saying that. Anyone who has ever run a motor with the rad cap off knows that after a few minutes (around 110*) she starts puking coolant everywhere. When the t-stat opens you'd better have an umbrella. Why don't you go out to the garage and try it?

Doc

maybe the word semantic (you forced me into some research) would be appropriate....

Yup, that sounds much better.

Of course, I get nit pickers picking away at my english, commenting on how I spell colour with a U for one, they complain my english is poor,when My english is fine, it's the fact it's english and color is in americanese that is the problem.

The problems with being a writer of Queens English on a USA dominated board.

rhys

just a follow up to what I said below.

Reference 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Service Manual and 1998-1999 Honda Accord Service Manual

1986 Olds Cutlass Service Manual OEM page 6B-7 under Cooling and Radiator in the GM manual basically describes the procedure I listed below. Paragraph title Drain and Refill, referring to the cooling system / radiator.

1998-1999 Honda Accord Service Manual OEM For you "rice-burner" fans.. page 10-9 and 10-10 under the cooling system section. Paragraph section titled coolant replacement. This section also describes basically the procedure I describe below.

Since I don't have the OEM manual for a 93 suburban I can only assume that it has a similar procedure as listed in the other service manuals I reference. So I defer to the appropriate service manual for the specific model vehicle as to the correct procedure required or recommended by the OEM.

I'm not saying one way is right or wrong or there's not another way to accomplish the same thing...

You're right, if you don't mind coolant all over your engine bay and shop floor your method works great to get all of the air out. A venting rad cap does exactly the same thing with zero mess and runs around five bucks.

Doc