Well, I gotta get the K5 from Tennessee to Atlanta.
U-Haul does offer a tandem-axle trailer that would get all 4 wheels of
the truck off the ground--much preferred over a tow-dolly. But their
website states that the K5 is "too heavy".
What's the best way to do this? I don't want to get into the hassle of
removing driveshafts and all that business, but I also don't want to
pay hundreds of dollars for someone to move it with a proper tow truck.
The tow vehicle is a 2006 Tahoe.
Well being the that Tahoe is really not matched in this job you want
to keep the towed weight down as much as possible hence a tow dolly.
Removing the rear drive shaft is not a big deal but if your old K5 has
a NP205 in it you can simpy place the transfer case in neutral and
leave drive shaft on. If you do this though you should over fill the
Tcase if you are towing it several hundred miles because lubrication
is limited in neutral. (removeing the drive shaft really is the best
way here and you can towing as far as you want that way too)
Gesh, car dolly, disconnect the drive shaft from the rear diff, wrap the
duct tape to keep the caps from falling off, push the end disconnected over
to the frame rail and tie it up. Shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to
The trailer Budget rents will handle your K5. Trailer or dolly, you will
pushing the Tahoe to its limits. I would prefer the trailer because it has
brakes, the dolly will put everything on the Tahoe's brakes. Depending on
in Tenn. you may have some grades to contend with . Its sad Budget has
the cab over Isuzu from its line up.
On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 01:31:08 GMT, "Whitelightning"
Good point but the towed weight will be about 1500lbs less which is a
big plus and it will have less drag too and pull easier because it is
closer to ground. I have used dollies with several vehicles and I like
them generally and budget rents a nice one too.
If the pinion bearing is shot, a tow dolly is out of the question due to the
fact that everything in the rear-end will be spinning at road speed.
Assuming you have the 4x4 Tahoe with 3.73's, the K5 alone almost max's
out the towing capacity of 6700lbs. Do you have a Friend that would loan you
His/Her 3/4T for a weekend? If not, put the K5 on a trailer that has just
enough capacity and has its own braking system, run premium gas in the
Tahoe(as far over 90 octane that you can find), don't even think about OD,
go easy(55mph max), and give the Tahoe a few breaks to cool down...Oh, by
the way, if the Tahoe has P rated tires, FORGET IT! It would probably cost
less in the long run to pay me to drive there with my trailer, get it,
deliver it, and drive home then it would for you to replace tires, and
possibly a trans rebuild 5 times sooner than average.
Best bet would be to try to find a 3/4T or better Friends Truck to
borrow(or maybe one to rent) to get it done.
Life sucks, huh? I have Faith in ya my Friend...You can Git-er-Done! But if
ya cant, let me know...I got the vehicle to tow it with and all the needed
tools and rear-end to fix it there...SUCKS you gotta be so far away, Your an
Actually, that pretty much answered my next question...And I'm not keen
on the idea of towing it backwards. I've seen it done before, and with
the locking hubs disengaged I wouldn't need to remove a driveshaft.
Nope... 2WD Tahoe, 3.23 gears. I know of a 3/4 or 1 Ton Ford but I
have serious doubts regarding it's reliability. That, and I doubt my
buddy would loan it out.
I think it may be cheaper to A) attempt to drive it back or B) pay
someone to move the damn thing. It's about a 250 mile trip. I moved
it last weekend when I was up there, a total distance of 30 miles. A
short run of that was on the interstate, at 60+ mph. I think if I
didn't get past 60mph, I could limp it back. It doesn't seem to be
getting any worse. Even if it's completely destroyed by the time I
pull it into the driveway, at least it'd be in the driveway.
It just requires an, um...interesting technique to drive it.
Basically, it makes a lot less noise if it's under load, or negative
load. If you're accelerating or deccelerating, it's bearable. Trying
to cruise though--just maintaining speed--cause a *lot* of whining.
I'm guessing because under those conditions, everything back is a lot
looser. So driving involves giving it too much gas, then letting off
completely...over and over and over...
Thanks, Man! The feeling is most definitely mutual!
Fixing it WAS an option...and still is, but the plan has permanently
changed. When I moved in May, my commute went from 1/2 mile to 30
miles, one-way. 60 miles a day, averaging 8mpg, at $3.15 a gallon
(premium)...you get the idea. It was costing over $100 a week just to
go back and forth to work. When I calculated the gas bill at the end
of the month, I realized that I could make a car payment, pay insurance
on said car, and pay for gas, and still spend less money.
This is actually a good thing. Replacing the axle with another 10-bolt
would be just like every other repair I've made. It's money spent that
just puts me back where I started. I want a 14-bolt, and had access to
a free one, still on the shipping pallet. It may still be available.
Same goes for a rebuildable Dana 60 front end. It also needs a cam
that's gonna give it off-idle torque, better idle quality, REAL vacuum
at idle, etc... Parking it in the backyard and driving a CAR that's
better suited to the daily commute will give me the opportunity to
upgrade things as I see fit, at my own pace, without wondering if what
I'm doing is going to result in me not having a ride to work the next
That's a feeling I haven't had in some time, as you and everyone else
on this NG knows, LOL.
By putting in "project vehicle" status it's going to change from being
a frustrating, necessary experience, to a leisurely, enjoyable hobby.
I won't have to scour the area looking for the cheapest, quickest way
to get it back on the road.
So...having said that, I should hopefully test drive and maybe put
money down on this '97 Saab 9000 Aero (turbo) I've been eyeing. (no
jokes please) Dad put over 350k on his '87 model. And if I'm gonna
drive something with a 4-cyl (starts to drool, makes gagging, wretching
noises) it's going to have to be something a little more substantial
than a Honda :-|
Consequently, I've been hanging on the Saab NG for a couple of weeks,
But that in no way means I won't still be here, as the work on the K5
WILL continue :-)
C) Remove the rear driveshaft, use about half a roll of duct-tape to cap it
off, and drive it back in FWD keeping close tabs on the duct-tape cap and
t-case fluid level. I have done this myself, though with a grenaded rearend
and not as far and had no problems at all...I would keep it more in the
Have a Buddy following to help you drag it off the road if it decides to
leave pieces behind.
I would try to keep as steady of a throttle as possible and have a 5gal pail
of 80W-90 with to keep it full.
HEY! Dont knock a Honda! I have an '87 CRX sitting in front of my home right
now that is a 40-50MPG, 1800lb, 2 seater, 76HP beast that raises its nose at
gas stations...maniacle laughs quietly so no one sees what I'm driving...
It's the girlfriend's vehicle. Chick-cars don't usually have 4wd or
better gears. She likes the radio buttons on the steering wheel
I could take some highways that would force me to limit speed. It'd
take forever though. And I'd hate to break down out in the middle of
I thought about this... I have no one to help except the girlfriend.
She wouldn't be much help, but I figured if I attempted this stunt at
all, I'd keep it in the right lane in case I needed to take evasive
My thoughts exactly.
Yeah, I was kind of kidding. I just don't like them. But as of this
very moment, I may be forced to get "whatever". I called about the
Saab...turns out the dealer found problems, so they dumped it back
where they got it (auction). This is two of them in a week that have
looked promising then turned out to be junk.
This would work but I have seriuos doubts about your tow vehcile with
3.23 gears. You could wind up needing a new tranny if it is hilly and
Also on rear axle, look for a 9.5 inch 14 bolt semi floater. They have
6 lug hubs and are often overlooked. It is a very sturdy rear axle and
about the equal of a D60. The axle is rated at about a 3 ton capacity
and is a lot stronger than the weak 10 bolt. Lots of after market
locker options for it too.
Sorry but a 3.23 is no tow gear. You want at least a 3.73 and better
still a 4.10 to tow that kind of weight. Take factory towing rating
with a grain of salt too as they are overly generous on some models
OK I'm going to assume that the K5 front axle is still OK. Pull the rear
drive shaft out. Rig a cover over the output shaft on the transfer case
so that you don't lose any fluid. Drop it in 4 wheel lock and drive it
home on the front axle?
Why not rent a large truck, and put K5 inside? I moved a car once that way,
and do not see much difference with a truck.
Just need a ramp to load, and unload.
250 miles, 500 round trip. Day trip. $50 for the truck, and now probably $50
for gas too.
remove one of the @'s unless you are a spammer.
"Jon R. Pickens" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
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