TL Brake Job

"Knot@Work" wrote in news:Y3lQg.2459$x11.2366@trndny02:

Those little screws respond best to an "impact driver". These are $20 or so at all auto parts outlets.

It's like a really fat screwdriver. You put the correct bit into it, give it a slight twist in the direction you want the screw to go, then whack with a hammer until the screw comes loose. Do NOT use a bit one size too small!

A warning here: You may have difficulty getting the rotors off the hubs due to rust. You can use the screw holes in the face of the rotor, but this method may not be sufficient. There is another, much more effective route that involves a half-pound ball-peen hammer.

Also, once you have the rotor off, you MUST sand the hub flange down to bare, shiny metal. It, and the mating face on the rotor, MUST be PERFECTLY clean and flat, otherwise you risk vibration.

Thanks for the info and for the useful faq link.

RWC

Is my memory right, that those are #3 Phillips instead of #2?

Mike

"Michael Pardee" wrote in news:ZIqdnR4WYJrRnY_YnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@sedona.net:

I can never remember the number. It's the biggest one that comes with the kit, anyway.

Don't forget, a small shot of something like PB Blaster, Kroil or Seafoam, an hour or so before you try to remove it, will make a big difference....

That's where I went wrong a while back. I assumed it was a #2 and stripped the heads before I took a closer look. D'oh!

Mike

All good points TeGGeR. The next time I replace my rotors I plan to get proper size allen head screws from the local industrial fasteners store to replace those horrible phillips ones Honda uses. A phillips bit is a terrible engineering choice for that application.

John

Nonsense - they went in on the assembly line just fine