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2001 E46 M3 tires

A while back I got a boat-load of sh*t for asking just how wide a rear tire I can put on this car. Things like "why would you do that?", "It didn't come stock like that", "stop asking that question". and more. All I wanted was a yes, that will work, or no it won't. Anyway, I just installed Goodyear F-1 D3s (18/275/40Y rear. 18/235/40Y in the front) that are 20mm wider than stock rears. I think it looks great. There is some light rubbing inside the fender when making quick left turns but I can live with that. Not bad at all and is silent during most driving conditions. The whole feel of the car is improved, is smoother riding and quieter that the replaced Michelins (sp?). This is a great combo. So if you're considering a wider rear tire for your E46 M3, do it with confidence. I think 285s would rub too much. My 2 cents.

Reply to
sgfan3
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Yep, all's well until you rub through the undercoat and start rusting the rear qtrs. Or the wider than designed tires cause extra stress and the rear wheel bearings fail. Other that, I don't see a problem.

Reply to
Richard Sperry

Uh-huh. Maybe you can live with it but most people won't. And for how long you can live with it remains to be seen.

Your experience notwithstanding, it's still a horrific idea.

Reply to
Richard Sexton

If you go over to m3forum.net the 275R 245F is the usual upgrade if you want to call it that.

Reply to
adder1969

FINALLY! A reasonable response to my post. My new tire set is just awesome and the right rear rubbing (inner wheel well. Not at the fender lip) is minimal. I don't see it ever being a problem. Looks absolutely killer! Thanks for the support Adder.

Reply to
sgfan3

If you define "resonable" as "somebody that agrees with you despite not being the consensus position" then sure. Yeah.

That's cause you've only had it for 4 days. Long term there will be "issues".

Well, that's all that counts then isn't it?

Reply to
Richard Sexton

It will wear the sdewall of the tyre and / or the localised heating, especially on a long fast run, will cause the wall to blister and peel off the cords.

The most interesting variation (unfortunately I don't know what the original rubber was so I can't work it out) is if the tyre is larger diameter than the original, then there is the possibility of the wheel sticking in the wheel arch under hard braking rather than the axle hitting the bump stops. Could get interesting, especially if it happened on one side only...

Do you do skirts, spoilers, opaque windows, air dams, power bulges, wheel arch flares, fluffy dice and other aids to insurers as to which drivers to charge more?

Reply to
R. Mark Clayton

Parodn me while I throw up in my mouth. But if you need a gullwing head...

Reply to
Richard Sexton

I believe the correct size should be 275/35 rear and 245/40 front. Lowering the rear profile may solve your rubbing issue.

Reply to
Bohacker

Having the correct offset would help too.

Reply to
Richard Sexton

How 'bout a thin steel spacer (1/4" maybe) between the wheel and hub?

Reply to
sgfan3

Eww. While proper racing type hub adapters are ok (ie, gilracing.com) wheel spacers are a bit dodgy. They're illegal in Australia for pretty valid reasons.

Wheels are cheap.

Reply to
Richard Sexton

Ditch this group and subscribe to m3forum.net There's a mix there of the "I've chopped my car 100mm and now it looks really awesome" guys and of the guys who regularly take their M3s to the track.

Reply to
adder1969

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