On Sun, 27 May 2007 21:39:55 +0100, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
In 1969, I think. It was a 2 or 3 year old Morris Oxford, and the
return spring on the accelerator pedal broke and the pedal fell to the
floor, uncontrollably unleashing all of the awesome power of the car.
I jury rigged a return spring from some rubber bands looped around the
pedal and hooked onto somewhere under the dash which got me home fine
and worked for a few days until I got around to fixing it.
As I said Dan, 40+ years ago and boy Oh boy all that POWER going to the
sophisticated RWD system. Single line drum brakes and lever-arm shocks.
I can remember racing one of these down the M1 - bow was he pissed when we
passed him at 68MPH he was flat out using all the 42BHP that the single SU could
muster - running on pump gas. Fantastic........... they rusted away at the same
speed didn't they?
The US muscle cars were fantastic design and even now are in great demand but I
see most are being retro fitted with decent suspension and 4 wheel disc brakes
and rack&pinion steering.
I loved the Boss Mustang, Dodge Challenger & Charger - the Chrysler 'Cuda etc.
and the new versions will be something .
So have I and I find that 99% of US built cars to be totally retro engineered
with the exception of foreign owned companies or with design bases in other
parts of the world.
Until the US makers found that UK cars actually went round corners and stopped
they never entertained the notion of disc brakes even after being proved to be
far superior on aircraft.
Drum brakes came as standard on the 440 and 426 Dodge/Chryslers until they used
the Mitsubishi Colt based rubbish in the mid 70s.
Aluminium brake cylinders and other parts were not fitted until late 70s on many
The OP was talking about sideways movement hampering engagement of D or
I see you are now mentioning the "INTERLOCK" to stop shifting into P from D or
from N to P inadvertently.
With this I agree it can be a PITA but I modified my shifter on a few motors to
have a forward shift from 2 > 3 > D lock N lock P so I could shift manually
without blowing the engine by accidentally shifting to N.
Rubbish - My 2000 Sebring convertible and 2000 Camaro did not have this "foot
on the brake to shift into D"
Agree - except for the new ZF/BMW 6 speed autos - all electronic and impossible
to get N without the engine running and the parking brake off. There must be a
way but it's not in the hand book so when it needs a tow they'll have to use a
rear end lift.
Well this is a new one on me ......... I have driven several auto BMWs and each
- depending on box, year and market (only driven 5s in the US) I can stat that
my '96 740i's lever - we are only talking about the mechanical interconnection
here as the 'box has nothing that will affect the lever motion - I must depress
the lever button to shift into P R and anything else other than D & N. The
movement is linear. Sport mode is via a slide switch next to the position
I believe that some shifter mechanisms do need a sideways push to engage or
rather allow the lever to clear the 'gate' as some do not have the button
interlock. Jaguar is one that had a separate gate for sport mode as did
Mercedes at one time.
My New E65 has a fully electronic system that requires a foot on the brake pedal
before one can do anything other than listen to the radio, CD,DVD or watch TV.
To start the engine depress the brake and press START. To shift into
Forward/Reverse depress brake and move column lever 10mm up and you engage R
10mm down and you select F or drive! Press the end with the foot on the brake
and you get P.
Some earlier models could have similar programming in the 'box CPU for the
reason stated previously. I would check this out with a BMW Stealer first but I
would assume that if everything else checks out the selector is probably Ok too
--- What does the handbook say about it?? First place to look I would think.
My 2003 E46 does not require any sidewise motion to go from N to D. In the
D position, one can
move it sidewise to engage the Sport position. Here you can determine where
the shift points are.
If you really want to do that, it would be cheaper to buy a manual
At the very least, I would be suspicious that something is wrong in the
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