What are the consequences of disconnecting the Linkage to the auto gearbox, the linkage starts at the stromburg carbs, I think it controls the kick down.
The reason I ask is I have a series 3 body with a Shortened RR chassis, I have just put a auto box and engine in, the problem I have is it never seems to want to change up unless I take my foot off the accelerator, I have only about 3 inches of travel on the foot pedal, if I accelerate is thinks kick down is being requested and changed down a gear, some one recommended altering the linkage but I am unsure where and how to do this the other option was just not to have a kick down buy disconnecting the linkage.
I take it the linkage you are talking about attaches to the carbs so it moves with the throttle? It sounds like it adjusted too 'tight' can you slacken it off? There should be a crimped collet on the inner cable that (I think) should be about 1mm from the end of the outer sleeve. I have an auto box on my 90 and had to make my own bracket up to get the right setting. I'm not sure what it does to the box but you shouldnt run without it connected Richard
On or around Sun, 01 Feb 2004 14:14:15 GMT, "Richard" enlightened us thusly:
tried that on mine once, for experiment. You have to shift it down by hand. It'll upshift at minimum speeds - almost immediately for 1-2, about 20 mph for 2-3 and about 30 mph for 3-4, sing standard RR/110 gearing. It'll also downshift at these speeds, near enough, under load, which is really a bit low.
as to the kickdown... the kickdown cable should *not* be pulled till it's tight. try pulling it by hand, you'll find it pulls out about 40mm-50mm (not measured it, I can if necessary) and then it feels like it's reached a stop. pull it a bit more and it goes "click" (in the box) and pulls about another 15mm. This last stage is the full-fledged kickdown position. If your linkage doesn't pull it that far, then you'll not get full kickdown. But that's not the end of the story, as the intermediate pulls before the "click" gradually increase the shift-speeds. optimum adjustment seems to be with the cable mostly retracted at idle position, and reaching and exceeding that "click" point at full throttle. It doesn't need to pull the cable to it's maximum extent provided it's done the "click" bit, and in fact it shouldn't, as described above.
On mine, it has a linkage from an old rover car which was designed for a borg-warner 'box, and this required some attention to make it work the ZF reasonably - in particular, the lever needed extending to get more pull in relation to the throttle movement.
I guess the best solution would be the linkage off a Range Rover.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.