As I suspect others do, I have one change in between the scheduled changes. If you have the dealer do this, request an "interim" or "interval" oil change (about US $75.00), not an "oil service" ($200+) and ask that your dash countdown not be reset. Also, if the 50,000 mile free maintenance has transferred to you, BMW will do an annual change for free, even if the mileage doesn't call for it. My experience on my Z4 and E46 328i has been no oil consumption between the ca. 8,000 mile changes.
While you can do this at 5k if you wish, you are probably wasting money as the OEM synthetic oil doesn't need to be changed that frequently.
BMW oil is "long life" but if you're really not happy then just get an oil change half way between services and don't have the lights re-set /ecu fiddled i.e don't tell the car its got new oil :-)
Someone (must have been a mate of a mate/ down the pub) said that some makers have longer times/distance between oil changes for the UK market as it looks good (pence per mile) for the large fleets who only care about the costs for 3/4 years and sod the owners down the line - don't know if thats true but it sort of sounds right
Basic common sense. The purpose of oil is to lubricate AND suspend particles. Filters have improved but still will not remove all the particles and dirt (there is a reason why new oil is brown and clear while used oil is black and opaque). Only changing the oil will remove them. I have one car that does not use synthetic oil and I change that oil every
3000 miles. Of course there is now 150k miles on that 4 cylinder and it still runs great, passes smog and burns no oil.
Sorry to intrude on your religious war, but you might find the website bobistheoilguy.com helpful. I bet you can find a used oil analysis on a BMW that includes Total Base Number and particulate analyses, which might be helpful in determining appropriate oil change intervals.
If you want to quote examples as a rule, my 20 year old hobby car has more miles than that and has had maker's recommended changes only from new - every 10,000 miles or once a year, which ever comes sooner. And the engine is fine. On dino oil for most of its life.
3000 mile oil changes date back to single weight oils and bypass oil filtration systems. Things have moved on a tad since the early '50s. ;-)
If it was, how about the oil and filter makers who are having *their* business cut? I think they would have something to say on the matter if it was the case.
And BTW, when did you last hear of a worn out engine in *any* car? Sure they can break cambelts and blow head gaskets, but ones needing a re-bore and crank grind?
Except the base number would change depending on the driving conditions. I bet the number will change for the same car driven in the same environment if the analysis is taken at different times of the year.
One thing did prove my point however. According to the site, if dirt is found in the oil it as the result of the air intake system (dirty environment), oil filter plugging, oil filler cap and breather, valve covers, oil supply. Since it is found in the oil, the filter failed to remove it and only a change will solve the problem.
Then change your oil every 1000 miles. Oh - and the gearbox and final drive oils too. They wear out as well. And at the same time since you know so much better than the makers how about safety items such as brake fluid? Best to change that every other tank of petrol. And the coolant and battery electrolyte too. You can't be too careful.
Well, I don't know about you, but I drain the fuel tank of that nasty old *yesterdays's* fuel, and fill up with fresh every morning. I definitely notice a difference in something, I'm not sure if it's the car's performance or the weight of my wallet.
A 6-pack of Mobil-1 costs about $25 at Costco. It takes 7 or 8 quarts for the 6-cylinder engines, so you're looking at almost $35. A filter is about $10, so minimum would be $45 for DIY.
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