Anyone replaced the clutch on an E34 M50 525i? Was it a horrible job or
relatively easy? I've got a very noisy release bearing - when I press the
clutch, and now a little when I don't - that sounds like it won't last too
much longer. Garage quoted £280 which isn't too bad except they'd want
another £300 if the dual mass flywheel needed replacing. I don't want to
get into spiralling costs so I'm inclined to do it myself for the £98 the
kit will cost, and ignore the flywheel unless it looks ready to crack (in
which case I've lost nothing but time). I'm concerned about removing the
driveshaft because I've never done that. While everything is apart, is
there a way of testing the guibo coupling if the car has one?
Another thing, what's a good adhesive to stick sunroof lining back on? It's
grey cloth and it's coming off at the front.
Do many BMWs have that?
Surely my 1.9 Z3 doesn't
That should be the easiest part
If it's like the old GM cars, there isn't a good solution. The foam
backing to that cloth has crumbled into dust. If you introduce glue to
that, you get clumps of mud.
The cheapest way to get it fixed correctly is to remove the headliner
shell yourself, clean all the old stuff off, and take it to a trim shop
(call first) and have them apply new fabric.
I didn't know what one was until someone told me I might have one. The BMW
dealer took the chassis number and said it did. So I looked it up, and
apparently it consists of two flywheels joined by some kind of coupling so
that they can rotate against each other by a certain amount, with some
resistance. I don't like the sound of it. As far as I can tell, it's
designed to reduce gear rattle and perhaps make for smoother shifts, but
I've always found this car slightly awkward in that respect. Rev matching
can be difficult perhaps because the flywheel is too heavy!
Good. I've swapped a clutch before, but on a FWD car with the engine out.
Removing the driveshaft quite frankly scares me, I'm worried it will rumble
after I put it back.
Yes, there is foam residue on the cloth. The surface underneath is solid
Car's too old with too many other faults to make it worthwhile. The front
edge wraps back over the top so it perhaps could be glued there, where it
wouldn't show. It stays on by itself for a while so it wouldn't take much
to hold it. I don't ever glue cloth though so unsure what type of adhesive
Often the clutch plate with have the spring dampers in it but on the
dual mass flywheels the flywheel has them in it instead. If the
springs are week or have broken then the clutch feel can be poor.
I'd bite the garage's hand off for £280 including a full clutch kit.
Some people say to also replace the spigot bearing which usually is not
included in the kit. It's also a good time to check the crank and
input shaft seals and also bleed the clutch.
The only difficult part of the job is access to the starter motor and
the gearbox mounting bolts and generally having good access from
underneath. if you can get a spanner to everything then it's doable.
On my 3 series I had to remove a load of stuff including the inlet
manifold to get to some of the bolts.
The driveshaft is six nuts and bolts either end and the carrier in the
middle. There's no splitting greasy CVs joints or the like like on a
If that scares you then I guess you shouldn't be doing the gearbox
Another option is to do away with the dual mass flywheel and get
yourself a used E12/28 flywheel, have it machined and use an E28 clutch
kit. Even with the cost of a used E12/28 flywheel ($75-125), this set
up is cheaper, lighter (save like something like 5-7 lbs), and will
produce faster revs. Its the "upgrade" kit for most E34 535i! What's
not to like?
I wouldn't worry. The BMW dealer service desk said they hardly ever
replaced flywheels. If something is wrong with mine I haven't noticed so I
think I can carry on living with it unless it's visibly cracked. My car is
15 years and 164,000 miles. Engine is fantastic, clutch is worn out from
sitting in stop-start traffic all the time! I've started getting the bus to
work because it's cheaper and more relaxing.
I'm not concerned with failure. I just don't need the added complexity
and weight. My OE clutch will likely last for years, so I'll just keep
an eye out for a good used flywheel and try to talk the Perfection rep
out of a clutch kit.
I had that motor in a 3 series, and paid for clutch work at 205,000 miles --
my throw out bearing was making noise like yours is -- and the cost for
pressure plate, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing was something in the
neighborhood of $300 for the parts kit, and the total repair bill was just
under $900 (USD).
On the 3s, the exhaust system has to come off, then a heat shield, then the
drive shaft -- a good time to look closely at the center bearing -- then the
transmission. I like to do my own work on my cars, but I'm glad to pay for a
Well, that's torn it. Last time I tried to get my wiper off it was seized
on. I'd decided to tackle the infamous loose wiper rubbing the paint off
the bonnet problem, but when it wouldn't come off I went back inside and
forgot about it.
If you cannot change a wiper arm, then take your clutch job to a shop.
If $900 payout is painful to you, and hard, greasy work is not, then
change it yourself. Doesn't look to be any worse than any other clutch job.
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