TEMP:Re: '85 B.netta B/ Relay

Try to by-pass the relay for now....

Leave the relay out...unplug the lead to the blower, run a new # 10 wire to it and to a temporary switch,then to the battery.

or #10 wire to the blower and a alligator clip to the battery. You'll have to connect it and disconnect each time....but it's better than freezing....

And yes I know this is not a proper fix,but it should work in a pinch.

HTH........Stan

If anyone's got a blower motor relay from an 84-86 Berlinetta, I'd very > much appreciate finding one ASAP! > > NOS is perfectly acceptable, as I've heard there ARE some NOS parts still > out there for Berlinettas....although I haven't found the warehouse that > holds them to this point. > > To aid in identifying the part (for those who do not understand that a > BERLINETTA-SPECIFIC PART is DIFFERENT THAN A NON-BERLINETTA SPECIFIC PART > (Notice the distinction here between the first and easy

"Berlinetta-SPECIFIC

part" and the second, more complicated "NON-Berlinetta-Specific part"...) > > I've found someone who can build the component when he gets the time "near > the end of February sometime"...but the bitch here is that it's (*@#ING COLD > without a blower motor functioning!!! > > Here's the pics (Scaled to 25% to save bandwidth) > > Thanks in advance to anyone who can help! > > --- > ElectroPigT (Circa ²oo4) > snipped-for-privacy@-SpAmBlOk-hotmail.com > > SpamBait: > root@localhost postmaster@localhost admin@localhost abuse@localhost > postmaster@127.0.0.1 snipped-for-privacy@ftc.gov > > >
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Actually, I had considered that option. My idea was simpler, though, as I could "theoretically" just run the wire through a rheostat and back, because if I'm not mistaken, it should be getting power as long as the key is on anyway....of course, I could be wrong about that, too...haven't gotten under there since the last time I replaced the relays a few years back.

My idea would at least bypass the need to disconnect/reconnect every time I jumped into the car...but only if it DOES get power with the key on, and of course, only if the switch I use has an "off" position and doesn't allow any current through when in that position.

All I need to do IF that theory is correct is to find out what type of rheostat to use...wattage, amperage...voltage is obviously 12 volt, of course. ;)

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ElectroPig

I only said to run a separate lead so it doesn't back feed into the system, since it is all electronically controlled.( Just like a Caddy,automatic fan control.)

That way nothing could get damaged in the system until it is repair properly.

best of luck..................Stan

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