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91 CRX Si Tach

Hello all...I have a 91 rex si with 68K miles. I have had continuing problems with my tach. After the car is warmed up the tach needle reads 0...bottomed. Sometimes it feels like it wants to stall, but it never does. I have addressed this as an idle problem, but I have tried everything, ie... new dizzy, new eacv, new plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter. I have check all vacuum lines and there is no leak. I took it to a Honda dealer and they say its the tach not reading right...cause my ignition timing is dead on spec. If it is the tach do I have to replace the whole cluster? I don?t understand how it can be my tach if it reads correctly until my car warms up... Any insight or tips would be greatly appreciated. Also, I just installed a B&M short shifter, and it seems hard to get into gears...It was a little difficult before the short shifter. Any ideas on what I could do....THANKS!!!!

Reply to
dcrolin
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dcrolin wrote in news:1_686205 snipped-for-privacy@autoforumz.com:

Check the blue wire from the distributor. It goes to the coil. It's either internally cracked at the connector, or its connection inside the distributor is corroded.

Shift more slowly...

...which defeats the purpose of a "short shifter", of course.

Synchros need time to drag the gears into synchronization before the baulk rings will allow the dogs to engage. A "short shifter" denies the synchros that time, unless you shift slowly, which defeats the purpose of a "short shifter", of course.

Also, your synchros are getting a bit worn, and your "short shifter" is throwing even more load on them than the stock shifter did. You will wear the synchros out faster now. Not only that, your efforts to force the lever into gear are wearing the shift forks more quickly as well.

"Short shifters" are a good way of wrecking your tranny in short order. Have you ever priced a tranny replacement? Rebuilds are even worse.

I'd uninstall that "short shifter" ASAP if I were you, and leave that sort of nonsense to the real racers it was designed for.

Reply to
TeGGeR®

The igniter has one lead output called the tach output. If by chance the igniter tach portion quits when the igniter gets hot then it a sign of an igniter problems or heat dissipation problem (missing conducting grease?) What you can do is to jump the tach output directly to your tachometer to troubleshoot.

Reply to
Burt Squareman

How exactly do I jump the tach output....Can you explain. Thanks for the response.

Reply to
dcrolin

"Burt Squareman" wrote in news:yLH3f.2266$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr13.news.prodigy.com:

Yeah, that's the blue wire I told him to check.

Good point.

jim beam, your thoughts on this?

Or see the new page here:

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Reply to
TeGGeR®

if the tach output quits when hot, i'd say the igniter's just about to fail. change it immediately - you don't want to be stranded in the middle of a busy freeway intersection. trust me on that one.

otoh, it could just be a bad tach connector in the cluster. the instrument circuit board is just a flimsy piece of plastic. sometimes disassembly, cleaning & reassembly cleans the connections sufficiently to make everything right again.

Reply to
jim beam

Unplug the blue wire (the smaller one on the side of the igniter) Clip an alligator clip on it and run the lead to your tach. At the tach is the same blue wire. This is not the best test. Instead follow these instructions:

1.) Probe an analog voltmeter negative on small blue wire nearest to the igniter. (The teminal on the left side of the igniter.) 2.) The voltmeter positive goes to positive battery. 3.) Voltage should rise/pulse and stay there during a hot idle.
Reply to
Burt S.

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