Blinking Brake light on Dash

"Edmonton ChevGuy" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@automotive-usenet.com...

sounds like it has rear wheel antilock brakes and there is a problem with it.

Whitelightning

Start by having the codes read and see what the computers say. Probably a problem with the ABS on that. There might be a way to read codes without a reader. I seem to remember some things posted on the net several years ago that would flash the Check Engine light in a sequence that you could then interpret. Search online and see what you can find.

"Edmonton ChevGuy" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@automotive-usenet.com...

Yeah you can read the codes the same way you pull them from the ECM, but I can not remember which two connectors to jump, and there were two different ones to jump depending on the system. I am just brain dead today on it

Whitelightning

see what the computers say.

"Trouble codes are read by jumping terminal A of the ALDL to terminal H of the ALDL and observing the flashing of the brake warning light. The terminals must be jumped for about 20 seconds before the code will begin to flash. In counting code pulses, count the number of short flashes starting from the long flash. Include the long flash as a count. SOMETIMES THE FIRST COUNT SEQUENCE WILL BE SHORT. HOWEVER, SUBSEQUENT COUNTS WILL BE ACCURATE. If there is more than one failure only the first recognized code will be retained and flashed."

on the bottom row second one in from the left.

Ok, the diagnostics for each code once you get it is kinda long, but if you wanna do that and tell me which code you have i'll post that up as well, just don't wanna type all of em.

Hope this helps, Ed

That seems like it makes sence to me could I try replacing that ABS brain box next to the master cylinder?

Profile:

I had the same problem and it turned out to be sensor in the front drivers side wheel

Thanks for all the info I'll check it out tonight and let you know what I find out. I have a Hayes manual that I'll check as well.

A good first step is to make sure there is no build up on the sensors. If I remember correctly they are magnetic and can pick up filings with time and screw up the pulse train from the sensor. Also make sure there is nothing on the ABS ring metallic doing the same thing. HTH

The light was flashing on a regular interval 6 short and one long for a total of 7 flashes. I removed the negative terminal to clear the codes as I had a service engine light come on for a disconnected Knock sensor. Now that the system has been reset the light has stopped flashing ... and is on constant. It's kinda dim and gets brighter when I depress the E-Brake. So now I have an all new interesting challenge.

I'm getting a new (used) steering column this weekend as mine is in rough shape, lots of little gremlins in there.

Profile:

Here is the diagnosis for code 7 or at least my best attempt to copy from the manual :)

Title: Shorted Isolation Valve or Faulty ECU

Ignition on

ground the diagnostic terminal

Disconnect the solenoid valve connector and check the voltage at the ecu from pin a to pin d(NOTE from pic these are the two outer pins of the 4 pin plug that goes to the isolation valve)

IF 0 Volts ignition off, replace the ecu

If it's 1 volt or more let me know and i'll type in the next set of diags for you, but I would try cleaning all the connectors first if that is the case.