Brakes

Hi folks, New to this group, but have participated in other NGs over the years. Nice to see good discussions here.

I have inherited a 1992 Shasta Class C motorhome that sits on a Chevy 30

1-ton van dual rear chassis, about 50K miles on it and it was used a few times each year. Almost everything is original, even the tires. My question to you folks here is about the front disc brakes (Bendix).

Looking at the pads they were a bit crumbly and it pulled to the left. Rotors in good shape. Initial diagnosis was to put new pads on and give it a bleeding. No problem there until I tried to put on the left side caliper back on. The final step is to tap the support key and the M-shaped spring back into their slot between the knuckle and the bottom of the caliper. My trouble is that there is not enough room to even get them started in there. I had to pound it pretty hard to get them both to move out in disassembly.

*** Question #1: is there any trick to this? I am thinking that there might be some kind of positioning trick perhaps.

So at that point I move to the other side. I find that the piston will not be pushed all the way down into the caliper (remember - pulled left so this side was not braking as much). I could take it apart or just replace both calipers for not a lot of $$. So I am just replacing these calipers on both sides. Dunno if this will help my fit problem above or not. Might.

The thing is that these calipers are pretty rusty on the outside, and so it the knuckle. Where they slide against each other at the top of the caliper is not a nice smooth surface anymore. The new caliper will take care of half of this situation. I am thinking that I ought to file the pitted knuckle sliding face smooth again. [The key/spring on the bottom is fine so the bottom is not at issue with a new caliper and brake lubricant.]

*** Question #2: Good idea or bad idea and why?

Thanks, Tomes

Reply to
Tomes
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I am not 100% sure what you are asking here; but I aways leave one caliper together (on vehicle) I take a pry bar against the rotor to the caliper "push" the piston in a little so I can get the caliper off. If you are having problems pushing the piston in to get it on the rotor with new pads a c-clamp can be used on the rotor to push the piston in. If you think the piston is pushing way too hard put a board in place of the rotor and pads (2 x 4) and push the brake pedal real easy to see if the piston goes out o.k. Try again to c-clamp the caliper and push the piston back, if it doesn't want to go back in try opening up the brake line. If it goes in easy after that, check the brake hose going to the caliper, I had one of those break down once and would let fluid into the caliper but not back out. If the caliper still will not collapse (piston go in) your caliper may need rebuilt or replaced. As for the slides, yes I would file them to get them smooth again, I would not take off much metal, just clean them up. Put some anti-seize lubricant on them when you install the calipers. Just as a note, the brakes pulling are not always from one of them not working. Sometimes there is a caliper sticking as you are pulling against the wheel counter-acting it and you put on the brakes it then balances out and since you are pulling against the wheel it darts that way. I hope that all makes sense.

Doug

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Reply to
Doug Adams

Thanks, it does make sense, Doug. When I indicated that the caliper would not push all the way back in I was doing it with the brake line still attached and with a C-clamp and a piece of 2x3. I went with the new calipers and will be installing them today unless it was cold like yesterday morning. A bit of filing is on the schedule.

I do have suspicions now on that right side brake line. The left one had the fluid run out, yet the right one did not. Tomes

Reply to
Tomes

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