Excessive Heater Core Failure--Trying Again

Under no circumstances should you use that crap in your cooling system. You are finding out the hard way that that stuff is a disaster in a bottle. You will need to flush your cooling system with a strong non-corrosive flush to remove all residue and acidic byproducts. If your heater cores are clogging, you have Barr's Leak still in the system. If your heater cores are corroding and leaking you have Barr's Leak residue left in there. Someone in this group should be able to recommend a powerful flush that should get you back on track. God luck.

Rita

I've had the same issue with my 92 blazer.

Sounds like someone better check the grounds on the dash panel:

The grounds from the valve covers to the firewall, the grounds from the bottom of the car to the floor pan, and especially: if there is Dex Cool, get it the f*ck out!

Run Massengil through the block if you have to, and go back to Ethylene Glycol anti-freeze. Don't ground the heater core to the case or firewall, and if you see there can be a potential ground path. Make sure you eliminate it. There is rubber tape, silicone sealer that you can put on thick and let it dry over night. It's better to waste a day of dry time, rather than re do the job again. By no means should the heater core be touching any grounded areas!

Years ago it would have been fine, but with the stray voltaics from high energy ignitions, static electrical discharge and electro magnetic interference of the wires bunched up and causing an electro-magnetic field. (I bet not many knew that condition existed?) The heater core will be the shortest ground path for the ECM wiring EMI, the ignitions stray voltaics.

Call me crazy or flame away!

I'll be waiting.

Refinish King

Thanks! I'll isolate the heater core from the fire wall (I find your prognosis very plausible, not crazy at all. Just wish I had thought of it first!) Is Dex Cool that new orange coolant? I'll also have the system flushed.

An aside: I posted a few weeks ago about front brake line collapse or meterin' valve failure causin' my '91 Suburban to pull violently to the right. Well I had the rubber lines replaced and all is well with the world.

Thanks again and no one can't be drug into an alley-- according to one of my former (way former) English professors.

Mark

I believe that the King may be right about our mutual problem.

On the bright side: I have become very proficient at changin' out my heater core! Removed and replaced in under 15 minutes :~^)

Mark

What he said is a valid effect that can happen if a heater core isn't reinstalled as it was from the factory. The electrolysis effect that he is describing generally doesn't happen as quickly as what you?ve been experiencing unless you have major contamination in your cooling system. Year?s back they used to flush with a caustic soda solution (sodium hydroxide) that would totally clean engine and heater core, but would weaken the hoses. This would be the best solution if you plan on changing all your hoses. If not, I would look for a tamer flushing solution. And, yes, go back to the green stuff.

Seems like your left line was clogged. Great news! I'm glad you got it working.

Only certain trolls can.:^)

Rita

LOFL

You saw that tirade?

I keep telling myself not to get into flamewars, but I maligned this woman and owe her. Also, I don't like the attitude of these particular sphincters. So I'm having fun!

The heater core shouldn't be touching any metal at all, So there is no ground path when the anti-freeze actually becomes a conductor. You'd be surprised the metal that rots from a block and any other cast iron components.

Good Luck!

Refinish King

Just to add something to Rita's reply about Sodium hydroxide. If you have any aluminum engine parts flush the system well b4 refilling with coolant. NaOH will eat aluminum, especially when it's hot. I dropped an aluminum outboard prop into a hot caustic cleaning tank to clean it up prior welding up a few dings. It was in there about 10 minutes and was so pitted when it came out that I bought a new prop and kept the old one for an emergency spare.

True, good advice. I could imagine the expression on your face when you pulled the prop out of the hot tank. Caustic soda can be very nasty if used incorrectly or too aggressively. Like anything else, more isn't always better. Year's back they used to clean aluminum air-conditioning coils with a diluted solution of caustic soda to restore them back to new condition. Using it full strength on aluminum can be dangerous since it reacts very rapidly and produces hydrogen gas.

Rita

Thanks, King. These persistent trolls can be a lot of fun to spank, especially when they think they are self-aware.

Rita

My pleasure Rita!

Refinish King