I've run out of gas before in my 2000 Yukon (no lectures please) and it has resulted in the fuel pump needing replacement. I'm told by GM Service (who are awesome in my neighborhood) that the fuel pump is in the tank and is very sensitive to running dry. Last time I had an extended warranty that paid for most of it.
Well, I just did it again.... ran out of gas. And I have no warranty now. Of course, I put some gas back in the tank, but it still won't start. This time I've been carefull not to try an crank it too much hoping I wouldn't hurt the pump, and am posting to the community instead.
Two questions:
1) Does anyone know a trick to get this started without ruining my fuel pump?
2) If it's too late, and I did ruin the fuel-pump... is this a job I might be able to pull off myself? Any pointers to how-to's or is the service manual the best to guide me through it?
Could be - I've even heard that you shouldn't run below 1/4 tank, as the pump is cooled by the fuel surrounding it.
Is your fuel gauge broken? :)
If it's anything like my '99 K3500, the fuel pump runs momentarily as it build pressure right when you turn the key to the "RUN" position. If I turn my key to "RUN", before I start the vehicle, I can hear the pump run briefly, then stop. If yours doesn't run, that would be a problem, or if it doesn't stop running that would be a problem. When I turn the truck off, it runs again I guess emptying the pump as some kind of anti-theft measure.
I DID replace mine, and it was pretty much what you'd expect. If the tank is not currently empty, siphon the gas out of it. You don't need any more weight in there. Remove the filler cap, and remove the hardware that holds the filler neck to the body. Loosen the straps that hold the tank to the frame and disconnect the fuel lines. Might need some help there; I don't remember exactly what the connections are like. A manual would be helpful. Also, you should depressurize the fuel system before you do this (though it doesn't sound as though you have any pressure), and use rags to catch/deflect any fuel that comes out of the lines. Loosen the straps the rest of the way, drop the tank, but watch the filler neck so it doesn't get caught or get a bunch of dirt in it. A rag in there might be a good idea, too.
Once the tank is out, you should be able to replace the pump pretty easily and - as they always say - installation is the reverse of removal. Getting all the fuel lines back on there (I think I had 3) can be tricky. Then make sure you've got enough fuel in the tank before you ever turn the key on. I'd suggest at least 1/4 tank.
My fuel pump was actually okay, but the fuel level sender was bad, and it was integral with the pump. Oh yeah, did I mention it's VERY expensive? Think $275+.
Hope any of this helps. And would everybody else PLEASE point out all the stuff I forgot, or that is different for the Yukon? Thanks.
Inside the underhood fuse box near the fuel pump relay there will be a single hole that is a prime pin. You can power it and you should hear the pump run, if not then you probably borked the pump. It can be replaced, difficulty is mostly determined by how much fuel is in the tank at the moment since you have to support it while you unbolt the straps and lower it down a bit to get the connections loose then pull the tank all the way out and twist the ring to remove the existing pump/sender assembly.
They may be awesome, but they are fairly stupid. Almost all of the late model GM fuel pumps sit in a plastic module that is designed to cover the fuel pump in fuel until the bitter end. So running your vehicle low on fuel is basically irrelevent.
Perhaps you didn't run out of gas, but the fuel pump just gave up the ghost at a very low fuel level.
When I get a no start condition at work, the very first thing I do is bring my hammer out with me to the vehicle. Often, you can just smack the bottom of the tank, and the vibration is enough to allow the brushes in the fuel pump to make contact and you can start the vehicle up and drive it in the shop. Of course, the fuel pump still has to be replaced, but it has saved me the hassle of towing the vehicle in the shop a few times.
It's not that difficult. I think another poster had a fairly reasonable explanation of how to do it. Of course, I would probably want to do a bit of diagnosis to make sure that it is in fact the fuel pump at fault. Nothing worse then dropping the tank, installing a pump and then discovering that it still doesn't run!
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