Re: A/C question

The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) is, oddly enough, useful in indentifying vehicles.

Modern photography technology apparently eludes you. And, you faild to post your address.

Irrelevant. Any number of compressors were used in both R-12 and R-134a applications.

The label that states the refrigerant type and charge.

But you stated that you get cold air when you jumper the low-pressure switch. That would indicate that there is at least enough refrigerant in the system to allow testing. Which tends to support my contention that the shop in question is not qualified to do A/C work.

That you know of.

I said what I did because there's no label on the evaporator box. Never was.

I'm not going to complain about what they did or didn't do, considering there's no record ANYTHING was done when I asked them to look at it since they didn't charge me.

and you are afraid to use your name when you post an article, You remind me of the fellah who showed up at a c*ck fight with a duck. Besides the others don't have to prove squat to you, If you think they are wrong then it is up to you to prove it. Until then they are right.

*Somewhere* under the hood is a refrigerant identification label that will state the type of refrigerant used, and the amount necessary to charge the system. Most are on the evaperator case, but all are near the service fittings.

Then, either they are not competent to service A/C, or, they threw a number at you to keep you from asking for free work.

You can R&R the switch yourself. There is a schrader valve in the fitting on the accumulator. Go buy the switch , unscrew and screw the new one on. hand tight! and only HAND TIGHT. The o-ring seals it, not the torque of tightening it.

This respondant is an idiot.

1993 most GM cars and trucks were R12 Nissan was R134a in 1993 GM was in 1994

: >2 days later, it stops working again, jiggle the connection on the : >pressure switch in the accumulator and the compressor kicks on, GREAT! : >Not working, AGAIN. I jumped the 2 contacts on the lead for that : >pressure switch and the compressor came on, the accumulator got nice : >and cold and the air coming out of the vents was cold. Would this : >mean the pressure switch is bad : : That is one possibility. There are others. : : >and I can take this to the shop with : >the recovery equipment to have them replace the switch? : : You can do whatever you wish. I'd suggest that you find a shop that : knows how to do A/C work. For what it's worth, the low-pressure : switch should be mounted on a Schrader valve, and would not require : discharging the system for replacement. A competent A/C shop would : know this. : : >

: >BTW, I'm not spending $250 to have the most-trusted shop disassemble : >my A/C system and do a proper conversion... : : Cold air costs money. How comfortable can you afford to be?

Don't be so hard on yourself.

Got evidence? I'd like to see your source for this information.

That's what I've been asking for.

Thank you. You have provided the evidence that proves your claim. The rest of the wankers here should learn from your example.

The condenser is really about the only part that IS different. No bonus points. The accumulators are the same. At least the aftermarket replacements anyway, and that is what we are talking about.

Where in NY are you Steve? Ever have to replace the injector in that thing? I have basically the same truck, but in black...

Please don't feed these piece of shit trolls, you'll only encourage those types to come back. He obviously has no clue of what he's talking about and he's just trying to stir things up in here. It seems he likes to go around to several groups and piss people off.

steelwheel wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@low.range:

OK, I take that back, there IS a label, it's just facing the fender. Makes it hard to read without a small mirror, or removing the fender.

Makes no diff. anyway, I fiddled a little with the switch/contacts in question and it now blows cold again...

Actually, many OEMs began using barrier hoses before the switch to R-134a. I'd be surprised if any of the MY 1994 vehicles in question here didn't have barrier hoses right from the factory.

That may well be, but "barrier" hoses were developed to prevent the migration of R-134a through the walls of the hose, which wasn't a problem with R12. Dave

I'm Upstate near Cooperstown. So far the injector is ok, but I have a spare ready to go. I have done a few of them though. Not hard after you do the first one.

Actually, No they're not.