88 Caravan 3.0 V6 persistent code 13

At my wit's end now. Code 13 keeps coming back on my 88 Dodge Caravan 3.0 litre!

Dealer replaced the engine controller which kept the car trouble free for a few months only. Then exactly the same problem came back. It was damp but well above freezing here in Vancouver, British Columbia when the trouble started again..

Symptoms: Engine starts and runs normally for 5 seconds, then dies with Check Engine light on.

Then after warmup, it runs at a high idle, maybe 1800 rpm and drives OK, unless starting on a hill, at which times it flat spots and takes a floored pedal to go but it does go.

Codes are 12, 13, 55.

Code 13 means "MAP sensor no change from start to run".

Last week we poked around and replaced the MAP sensor with a new one. That wasn't it. Pulled the 60-pin connector from the "computer" (engine controller) and checked continuity from the MAP connector to the 60-pin connector. Then we put it back together. At the time we checked vaccum with a gauge - solid at 20 inches. Removed each vacuum line to check as well. Had the battery terminal off to reset the computer each time.

It worked for about a week but Code 13 came back.

Two weeks ago I looked at it again.

No gunk in the newly replaced MAP vacuum hose. No opens in the three wires all the way to the 60-pin connector. Used a round file to carefully burnish the contacts in the connector. Did not worry about corrosion on the 3-month old engine controller.

To check the MAP voltage, I even soldered three test points right into the cable harness near the engine controller to watch the MAP voltage.

With ignition on and engine off, I can see the effect of blowing (1 volt change) and sucking (three volt change) into the vacuum port of the MAP sensor so it seems to work.

With ignition on and engine on, I can see the swing in the MAP voltage from +5 to +1.5 volts from engine off to engine on. BUT even with the voltage swing, the same problem comes up: engine dies after 5 seconds and CHECK ENGINE light comes on with a Code 13 read-out.

I had the big connector on and off about ten times that day.

Could the code 13 be bogus and triggered by another condition? Anyone seen this kind of persistence of Code 13 before?

I may have to give up so would be grateful for suggestions.

Reply to
gw-hisself
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Normally I'd say corrosion somewhere. Check your grounds, very important!

But in this case I'd go to a wrecking yard and get another engine controller just to be sure.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Mittelstaedt

The engine controller *is* new. Only about 5 tanks of gas since dealer replacement.

Set of symptoms that prompted replacement is identical to current symptoms.

Good idea about checking the grounds. I am suspecting that giant

60-pin connector. The female terminals in that connector at the end of the wiring harness are round stamped metal and may be losing contact with the male pins on the controller module.

I wonder if those individual pins come out to be tightened up ...

Reply to
gw-hisself

Reply to
The Bathtub Admiral

The test wires I solder-spliced in were only one or two inches away from the 60 way junction so the next logical step would be to check the female pins on the connector itself. I only hope that they can pull out, be crimped with pliers and then be put back in.

Serial data somewhere on the mostly parallel 60-pin connector? Didn't know that. Why is there serial data and where would it be going?

"The Bathtub Admiral" wrote:

Reply to
gw-hisself

They can, but you'll need the proper tools otherwise you risk mangling the connectors and terminal block.

No, serial data transmitted by the PCM to the diagnostic connector located under the hood.

For diagnostic purposes, it goes to the diagnostic connector located on the left side of the engine compartment, slightly behind the battery, near the row of relays mounted to the inner fender. the data is meant to be retrieved by (initially) a Chrysler DRB type scan tool although there numerous other aftermarket scan tools available.

Reply to
Neil Nelson

Has technical Service bulletin # 18-14-88 been performed?

How about TSB # 18-09-91?

These bulletins involve relocating the MAP sensor and installing a bleed hose assembly to the MAP vacuum harness and a purge jumper vacuum harness.

There should be/would have been a modification label attached somewhere underhood if the TSB was done at some previous point.

Reply to
Neil Nelson

I made a Molex pin remover for PC power connectors once from brass tubing. However, I think I can use a sharp tool to bend the connector a bit in the housing to ensure contact.

It's an 88. I will buy a reader when I get a newer vehicle and I need to buy one. The vehicle might be too old for the newer code readers.

Reply to
gw-hisself

I don't hink either one has been performed. There wasn't anything plugging the hose or sensor at all.

It's a 1988 model and the MAP sensor is on the alternator bracket.

Reply to
gw-hisself

Be very careful, as these vehicles age, the connectors and terminal blocks get brittle. Terminal extraction tools can be gotten from any of the major tool suppliers or via the "Help" brand (Dorman) parts and accessories line that many national parts chains carry.

If you mean waiting and getting a scan tool to fit a 96 or newer vehicle, then yes, it most likely will *not* be capable of communicating with your 1988 MY vehicle. Check e-bay, there is lots of stuff for sale at pennies on the dollar compared to what it sold for new.

Reply to
Neil Nelson

You'd be best served to visit a Chrysler or Dodge dealership and ask them to dig up the part numbers for or a copy of the latest TSB (18-09-91) and then see if the parts are still available, if so, install them before you dig any deeper. Once these TSBs were issued/ implimented, cronic /false code 13 problems pretty much evaporated. If the parts are no longer available new, a visit to a wrecking yard should yield everything you need. You're looking for a plastic fitting "Tee'd" into the MAP sensor hose, at the end of the "Tee" there is another plastic fitting (the bleed valve), the distance it is installed from the MAP sensor is critical so pay attention to how it's installed in the vacuum line.

Reply to
Neil Nelson

I fixed my code 13 problem! Thanks to all and especially to Neil Nelson for inspiring me to test all the possibilities. We were ready to buy a near-new van but have to be in money-saving mode for awhile yet. You would not believe how relieved I am this problem is fixed and much money saved. History: After having the engine controller replaced, MAP sensor replaced, checking for vacuum leaks and checking ALL the relevant electrical connections ALL the way back to the module over literally months and months, it still complained of a non-responsive MAP sensor. Today I unplugged the 1/8" ID hose that the dealer had installed and blew into it. It was clear, but there was a hint of an obstruction. It was OIL! Cleaning it out with solvent fixed the problem like magic! Then I went by a wrecking yard to see if could could find the TSB parts mentioned but there weren't any to be seen. However, I did manage to see what the proper hose was and grabbed one. It was 1/2" ID at the manifold end and 1/4" at the MAP sensor end. I would have been problem-free longer had I the right tapered hose to start with but the dealer who replaced the controller just assumed a thin hose was all that was needed. So blow-by must have been depositing oil into the intake and it built up over weeks in the 1/8" (wrong) hose. I suspect this as after a highway run, a huge cloud comes out when restarted the next day. Never in town though. I suppose that the by-now-discontinued TSB part must have been some sort of oil trap to prevent gumming up the MAP sensor. That engine controller must check for a change in MAP voltage too early, before engine vacuum has had time to build up and get past the plug of oil, no matter how runny it was in there.

- gw

Neil Nelson wrote:

Reply to
gw-hisself

Glad to see that you got it fixed. Any time I replace a MAP sensor on a Chrysler product, I replace the entire hose/tube with a length of 1/4" vacuum hose.

Shame on the dealership that originally replaced the SMEC without doing a TSB search and/or just plain not recognising that this thing should have the bleed valve installed.

FWIW, a friend went thru similar > I fixed my code 13 problem! Thanks to all and especially to Neil

Reply to
Neil Nelson

Thanks for the info.

My 88 New Yorker is starting to throw intermittent 13's at me. I will check the hose to the MAP sensor first !

Steve

Reply to
Steve Stone

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