Recently, there would be this clicking when you started it - 3-5 times, then it would start. Does this mean a loose ground or something? I've put 2 batteries in it since I got it in April, 2004. Now, the check engine light stays on, and if you drive it too far (with a borrowed good battery) the check gauge light comes on. Can someone give me some leads or something.
Sounds like a couple of things could be going on.. obviously it is electrical..HHEHE.. anyhow go to your local autoparts store (autozone Checker etc) and have them do a test on your alternator and your starter.. I would bet that your alternator is going out... also sounds like you have an issue with your starter.. It could also be just that your starter has some issues and the Silanoid is continualy putting a drain on the battery that the Alternator cannot keep up with.. Anyhow have them test those items.. oh yes before you go charge up your battery that way they don't blame it on your battery. :)
I forgot to mention that I replaced the alternator - with the one that was in the trunk. I was told it was new (and it was larger then the original, kind of a tight fit). My fan wouldn't come on today, car started to overheat. Not sure if that's related. I pulled it out a while ago and threw it in the trunk. It's working though, I connected it to the battery terminals and it spun :). What's the most likely problem though? If it turned out to be the computer, would you buy one from a junk yard? I determined to fix this stupid problem. I have a working knowledge of electricity, just never troubleshot auto electrics before.
I would look at your starter next and also start looking for shorts in the electical system. I would say that the fan not coming on is part of your issue... Pick up a manual with a electical schematic for your car and start looking for shorts coming from the areas that you have already had issues with IE starter, fan etc.. Also make sure that the alternator that you put in matches specs for your car.. if it is pushing too many amps that can cause an issue as well... I wouldn't jump to the conclution that it is your computer the issues you have been having are not necessarily controled by the computer..
Check for codes.
To check the computer codes:
With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it "ON". Do not go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.
Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. For instance, if it flashes:
flash flash flash
flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash
flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash
Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a
55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes stored. Check the codes and report what you find.Get the engine running, measure the battery voltage (everything electrical, switched OFF). The voltage should be over 14 volts. If it's not, then the battery isn't charging. Check the alternator output (the big heavy wire, bolted on) You should see better than 14 volts. If not, check the Vreg (can't remember where it is on this car). If the Vreg is inside the alternator, check that the sense wire FROM the battery, represents the same voltage measured at the battery, if the voltage (less than 14 volts) is there, and the alternator still isn't producing an output, suspect the built in Vreg, or open diodes, or worn out brushes. If the Vreg is external, check that it can monitor the battery voltage, check that it outputs a ground signal to the alternator to turn on the field winding (other side connected to the battery. By manually grounding this lead the alternator should output maximum voltage, while it's grounded. Usual problems are POOR grounds, check the battery to chassis ground, Vreg to body ground, solenoid relay to chassis ground and engine to frame/body ground.
as for codes: 12,35,41, and 55
Basically, the battery would read 12.3 - 12.5 volts when the engine was off. When you started it, it dropped to something below 12v. When you revved the engine, it would go down more. I guess all this was already obvious.
I took the "new" alternator off, and found which wires the 2 (coming off the molded connector) correspond to. There's a square connector near the battery, and two of those pins correspond to the 2 that connect to the alternator. Haven't determined which is the "field" or "control" (computer) wires yet. Have to see what my wiring diagram says (and my diagram says it's for an AA body, and I think mine is AJ. Was e-mailed and told that it shouldn't matter).
Now, once I get done tasting the alternator, by grounding the control terminal, I guess I have to start randomly testing continuity. There isn't as many wires as I first suspected though. And the part about the starter - how would I tell if the starter is causing the problem. Thanks immensely for everyone's help by the way. I'm sure I'll be an electrical expert after I get through this :).
I took a look at my old alternator, which had alot nicer fit. It won't turn, obviously frozen from the humidity in the air. Since these things are repairable, I'll probably clean it up, deal with the binding issue, and reinstall it. Are parts generally available to overhaul alternators these days? Hate putting too much money into this car. Needs a cat, struts, and shocks as it is lol. I already bought everything necessary for a major tune-up. My guess is I could even install new bearings (bronze?) with an arbor press? if necessary.
I think the regulator is in the computer module. Can't swear to it, but I think that's what the dude at Carquest told me.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.