1994 Chrysler LeBaron Check Engine Light

Hi...

Not a mechanic, but you needn't rent a code reader, you might want to try the key on key off sequence to read any stored codes...

Car parked. Turn the key on (not start, just to the on position), then quickly off, then on again, then off, finally on again and wait. Watch the check engine light, it will begin to slowly flash two digit codes.

Kinda like this:

on off long pause on off on off long pause would mean 1 followed by

2 = 12 (start of the read sequence)

If you'll write down what it flashes, someone here will happily tell you what the code represents.

Take care.

Ken

Ken,

I did what you suggested and here are the check engine light flashed as follows:

1 - 2 - 3 - 2 - 5 - 5

Thanks for the quick response and any information you can provide!

Tracey

Ken Weitzel wrote:

Code 12: Battery disconnected within last ## key-on cycles / Start of codes

- Nothing to worry about, normal

Code 32: EGR Solenoid Circuit - 1) An open or shorted condition detected in the EGR transducer solenoid circuit.

- Not really a good thing...

Code 55: End of fault codes.

- Normal

What exactly is the EGR transducer solenoid circuit? How important is it?

FeMaster wrote:

Hi Tracey...

12 is simply the start of the sequence, and 55 is the end, means nothing.

Leaves you with 32, which indicates an EGR system failure...

"Required change in air/fuel ratio not detected during diagnostic test"

Once again, not a mechanic, just an old retired electrical guy who loves cars, so hopefully the mechanics here will guide you further. Meanwhile, check the hoses for leaks, cracks, too hard to make a good seal. Check the electrical connector for proper solid connection.

Good luck, and take care.

Ken

replace the EGR valve with a MOPAR part, it comes complete with transducer and all

Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech

Glenn,

Is it necessary? What happens if I don't replace it? I found that it costs around $3, but I have a history of causing more problems whenever I try to work on my cars...

Thanks for your assistance!

maxpower wrote:

$3 dollars, I don't think so!!! An EGR valve for that vehicle may be around $100.00 with about an hour labor to install it. If the valve goes bad and sticks open you could have stalling problem or hard start problem. If it doesn't open you may get a pinging problem at highway or accel speeds, Not to mention the emissions that your tailpipe is putting out. If the state you live in has an Emissions test program you may fail NOX emissions.

Glenn

A wasn't saying it was $3, I was disagreeing. Purchase the part from Chrysler, the valve and transducer as a complete part!!

Glenn

Glenn,

You're right: The EGR solenoid is around $3; the EGR valve is $60. Is it difficult to replace?

maxpower wrote:

Glenn and others,

Thanks for all your (prompt) assistance! I really appreciate it!!!

Sincerely,

Tracey Gray

maxpower wrote:

Tracey,

Don't be surprised when you purchase the new EGR and it keeps doing it.

I have 2 vans, a 1994 T&C and a 1995 T&C and both of them have exactly the same symptoms. I've replaced the EGR valve a couple of times in the

1995, both with new parts and known used good parts, taken the EGR valves apart several times, everything is good. Both vans pass emissions perfectly, both on the static text (which they are now doing ) and on the older dyno tests (which they used to do) And when I bought the 1995 it did NOT pass NoX emissions because the EGR valve in it had a old, cracked diaphram, so I know that the emissions testing facility was doing the testing right, because after I bought it I got it tested in the morning whereupon it failed, replaced the valve at lunchtime, and got it tested in the afternoon whereupon it passed. Then a week later it did the CEL light at high highway speeds and I took it back to the testing center, all prepared to rip a new asshole in the parts dealer for selling me a defective EGR valve - and it still passed.

If you dig into the service manual you will eventually find that the engine computer occassionally actuates the selonoid (only while at cruising speed) and then decides if the exhaust stream composition has changed rapidly enough to indicate that the valve is working. My $0.02 is that the engine software programmer made a mistake and set the wait period before detection for the composition change to be too short. With new engines that have tight exhausts, and no carbon buildup in the EGR tube from the exhaust to the valve, it's barely enough time, but it works. With the older higher mileage engines that have minor exhaust leaks, and more carbon buildup in the EGR passages I believe the slew from actuating the valve does not produce as high a composition change, as quickly, and the engine computer decides it faulty when it's really not.

If I were you I would not spend a dime on the EGR valve unless I had got it emissions tested and it failed NoX. I would suggest that you take it in to be emissions tested, and if it passes, then leave it alone. If you absolutely must change the valve, be aware that this is one of the FEW parts that is cheaper from the dealer than from the aftermarket - and in taking apart the dealer valves and comparing them to the aftermarket valves, every last thing is absolutely identical including the casting marks and casting run numbers. I believe that the same company makes the EGR valve for both the aftermarket and the dealer.

Ted

Ted,

Thank you for your $0.02. Fortunately, my state doesn't require emissions test, so I'll just keep ignoring it. I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't hurting my car and I feel confident now that I am not.

Thanks again!

Tracey

Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:

Because no one as yet has explained that piston damage occurs when an engine is detonating due to lack of EGR and that piston damaging detonation often occurs long before the driver can actually hear it.

I don't want to hurt my car, but I don't want to waste money and time either. The CE light doesn't come on very often -- probably once every 3 months or so. I am assuming that whenever this occurs it is because the EGR is failing at that point only.

Am I >> I just wanted to make sure that I

Wrong assumption.

The light comes on when the EGR *monitor* fails, that is not to be confused with the actual EGR operation. IOWs, the EGR monitor doesn't run as often as the EGR would normally be operating.

The EGR is there for a purpose, not all of which have to do with NOx emissions.

I won't say "I understand" because I don't really. I'd rather go the easier route (not replace it), but I see your point.

Thanks for your input.

aarcuda69062 wrote:

Does the word detonation ring a bell Ted? Another thing is some aftermarket will sell just the EGR valve and not the Transducer with it. replace the valve install the old transducer and look, the check engine lite is still on.. You have taken the EGR valve apart??? Lost me on this one.

Glenn

Absolutely!!!