93 Dodge Caravan Stalling Problems

All sorts of different problems can cause this. Some will be picked up by the vehicle's onboard computer and stored as a "fault code" which can help direct you to the problem, and some will not.

The mechanic who wanted to use his diagnostic computer for an hour was not being unreasonable. Nevertheless, you can check for any of the grosser failures that will both cause stalling and be picked up by the computer by checking for flash codes.

To check the computer codes:

With the engine off, switch the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it "ON". Do not go to "start", just "on" during this procedure.

Watch the "Check Engine" or "Power Loss" light. It will turn on, then go off, then will begin to flash-out any trouble codes that have been stored. For instance, if it flashes:

flash flash flash

flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash

flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash flash

Then you have a 12 (one flash followed by two) a 35 (three and five) and a

55 (five and five). 55 means "end of codes" or, if by itself, "No codes stored. Check the codes and report what you find.

Other problems that can cause this symptom and will NOT be picked up by the computer include a dirty throttle body and/or AIS motor, faulty wiring to the AIS motor, a plugged or improperly serviced PCV system, and others.

DS

WELL SAID

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REMOVE the NOCRAP in my address to reply.

The fuel filter is good advice, but I also suggest a thorough throttle body and throttle plate cleaning as well and replacement of the PCV valve. These are easy to do and very low cost. From my experience (and others) this engine seems to get a dirty throttle plate every 25-30K miles and it usually affects the vehicle when it is idling.

Bob

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thanks for answering. I went to a garage who a freind reccommended. The mechanic told me the computer was the problem. He used what looked like a small laptop computer to diaganose the problem. He said the reading he was getting he had never seen before. So I got a used computer for 100 bucks and he installed it for me .

While the stalling has stopped for now, it still idles roughly like its going to stall. And there's a hesitation sometimes while driving. Also a popping sound occurs sometimes when I give it the gas. Obviously the guy I went to can't figure out the problem. Would a tune up help? Thanks.

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I was told fuel filter by somebody else as well. To me its obviously something to do with the fuel line. I will check into that one. Thanks.

10:16:01 -0500, Len wrote:

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The computer is almost NEVER the problem. They simply almost never break. It's sad that thirty years after the first engine control computers appeared, we still have ignorant and/or lazy and/or dishonest and/or stupid "mechanics" like the one you picked saying "It's the computer".

Translation, he didn't know how to use his diagnostic computer.

Still waiting for you to post codes, see below.

Actually, you'd be surprised how many times the computer actually IS at fault.

The problem you had is now gone, and a different problem now exists. It is pretty obvious the computer is involved in the problem - and my guess is you either have another bad computer (a risk when buying used

- but even new or "rebuilt" units have been known to fail) or you got one for a different application and the calibration is off.

Is there a "learn cycle" on this computer? Many do. Untill they have gone through the cycle all the adaptive and block learn settings are wrong, causing poor running.

Actually, no I wouldn't. On what grounds do you claim otherwise?

Sounds to me as if the selfsame problem still exists.

DS

No, I wouldn't be surprised. As Daniel said, the computer is very seldom the problem, but they do go bad occasionally. I'd say probably

95% or more of the failures are sensor failures. The computers fail probably less than 5% of the time. However, they do fail. I have an out of service rear window washer on my minivan due to the failure of one output on the BCM.

I'd say the only obvious thing is that you aren't doing a very good job of diagnosis. Plug and pray isn't a very good way to fix electrical problems.

Why not just pull the diagnostic codes? It is rather easy on Chrysler vehicles.

Matt

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Okay. I just did the test. Here's what I saw

First the Check Engine light came on, then went off.

Next there were three flashes- a pause- and then five flashes

After that came 5 flashes- a pause- then five more flashes

I did start the van, and while its freez>>

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Ok, just change "you" to "your mechanic" and my comment still applies! :-)

Matt

Something isn't right. You should have received a "12" at the start, a flash, a long pause (long being relative here as it really isn't all that long), another flash, a short pause and another flash.

Then you should have had another long pause followed by the flashes for the real code(s) that are set ended with the "55" as you saw. Are you sure it didn't flash 12 at the start?

Matt

He won't necessarily get a 12 at the start.

--Geoff

I don't think you read the flash codes correctly. Those first three flashes were probably actually a "12" (one flash, a short pause, then 2 flashes).

You read the last code correctly (five and five = 55, "end of codes").

So go run the test again and watch the pauses more carefully -- I'm betting that middle five is actually two groups of flashes. 14, 23, 32 or

2. DS