1. Home
  2. Chrysler Cars
  3. 98 Sebring Conv.-- Draw on battery.

98 Sebring Conv.-- Draw on battery.

Ok, here's one for any of you Experts out there.

Battery started dying weeks ago, decided to replace it. Local auto parts checked alternator in car, charging fine. Noticed big spark when connecting neg. terminal, so connected 12 Volt test light between neg. and pos. terminal. Very bright light, meaning big draw. Pulled ALL fuses one at a time, inside engine compartment and passenger compartment. No difference in brightness of light. Then pulled fuses on 2nd aftermarket alarm system. (Don't ask me why this car has two alarms.) No difference in brightness.

I'm thinking it could be bad diodes in alternator? Havent' checked that yet. Problem is I cannot get my hand down to the connector to disconnect alternator to check for draw, also don't have the tools right now to take off alternator. Anybody know another way to check if alternator is causing a draw?

Another possibility is the draw will reduce after all the systems go to sleep, and my old battery was just to old to handle the initial draw when the car turns off. How do I check for this with an ammeter while the battery cables are connected?

Thanks.

Reply to
robby
Loading thread data ...

You could look at the voltage with the engine running with an oscilloscope, but I'm guessing you don't have one if you don't have the tools to remove the alternator. (not a slam, just a statement of fact.) Other than that, look for the other end of the wire coming from the alternator, possibly on the starter solenoid if you have one? Then you could disconnect there and check for current with your test light.

You don't. Ammeters are used in series so the battery cable needs to be disconnected. Do you have some test leads with alligator clips?

good luck,

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Actually nate is not QUITE 100% right. You need a "clip on" ammeter. They generally come in several ranges from automotive tool suppliers. The 200 amp unit is used to test starter draw, the 60 amp to check charging system output, and there are smaller ones, around 10 amps, for checking loads.

Otherwize, there are "shunt" ammeters that go on the battery post and the cable connects to it. With the heavy shunt in place it reads heavy currents - like starting. Open the main switch, taking the heavy shunt out of the circuit, and it read on the low range for charging system tests.. On some you can also take out a smaller shunt, making it read much lower currents for troubleshooting things like "phantom loads"

Reply to
nospam.clare.nce

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.