Actuators - electric door lock/latch

Last Fall I changed the right rear door actuator. Six months ago the left door began buzzing but before I could get to it, the door locked
and stayed locked. Neither the Chrysler dealer nor the local AAA towing company could get it open. So I drove it 'till now trying to devise a plan. I was just getting ready to remove the back seat, pull up the door bottom plate, and hope I'd see the door panel access screws when for no reason whatever... as I drove from the parking lock and the car hit 15 mph... the left rear door buzzed. I was elated! Today I drove direct to the Chrysler dealer where I got that gawddamn hundred dollar part with intent of dropping everything and and replacing the motor. The guy lost his franchise and his computers were down! I loosing this door lock battle.
Does anyone have a source for these parts? I even called Summit Racing in Akron, Ohio and they told me neither of their two sources could supply them. Tomorrow, I'll walk through the yellow pages for Chrysler dealerships.
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jaygreg wrote:

What car are we talking about? Year?
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Bill Putney
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Sorry, Bill. That would help, wouldn't it. It's a 2000 Concorde LXi four door with 3.2 engine.
P,S. By the way, the service manager of that ex-Chrysler dealership who I've gotten to known over the years asked me why I was asking to have the timing belt changed at 105,000 miles. He said it was the 2.7 engine that was at high risk. He claims never to have made a maintenance-type replace on a 3.2 engine like mine. Now I'm confused. Your opinion on the service manager's comments please.
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jaygreg wrote:

Left rear door latch: P/N 4574023AE - list $123 - mopardiscountparts.com $82.41

His personal experience aside, he doesn't know what he's talking about. Here are the two links that I provided to MoPar Man - read and heed:
http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f5&t 498 http://300mclub.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f &t928 (just two examples of many seen all the time on the various LH car forums - the 3.5L used in the 300M is the exact same engine as the 3.2L in your Concorde - the *only* difference is the bore size)
The 2.7L has a timing chain - which would last the life of the car, except they incorporated the water pump into the timing chain. If it wasn't for the water pump, you could leave the chain alone.
I have two Concordes - one with the 2.7, the other with the 3.2. I did the first timing chain and water pump replacement on the 2.7L last year at 207k miles - I did take a little risk waiting that long, but what would have failed was the water pump - not the chain (until possibly the water pump failed and caused the chain to crash).** My 3.2L on the other hand will have the belt and water pump replaced without fail every 100 to 105k miles.
**What's really weird and amazing about that is that the old water pump turns like a new pump by hand (I was so impressed by that that I have it sitting in my garage - can't throw it out) - smooth as glass turning by hand, and yet not one spec. of detectable play in the bearings.
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jaygreg wrote:

The same things happened to my '00 300m. Over the years, I've had to replace both rear door lock latches. It's a PITA to replace (connecting all the linkages). Strange that the front ones are just fine (so far).
If your car is like mine, it will auto-lock the doors when you start the car and either reach a certain driving speed or drive more than a few hundred yards. You can reduce the wear-and-tear on your door locks by reprogramming the car to NOT auto-lock the doors.
I'm still wondering if there is a way that ALL 4 doors can un-lock with a single press of the key-fob unlock button.

I bought my first one from the dealer. I bought the second from a junkyard. I'm pretty sure that they're the same unit across many chrysler/dodge car models.
Take the old one out and bring it to the junk yard when you go, to make sure it matches the one they try to sell you. (I did that - I kept my rear door closed while driving around by putting a small C-clamp around the door latch).
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