Chrysler Alternator

What engine does your T&C have? Have you tested the alternator to ensure that it is defective?

-KM

Poop Boys and AutoBone LOVE these guys. They'll sell you cheaply rebuilt alternators all day long, when the trouble could be a fusable link or simply a loose junction. Same used to apply back in the generator days. "Rebuild? Sure!" Then, they'd come back an hour later for the regulator...which usually only had a case of crusty points.

The OEM part (new) costs about $300. A rebuilt can be had for under $200. Why a rebuilt costs so much for this vehicle is hard to understand.

Richard.

There's some good points in the replies. Be sure the Alternator really is faulty before replacing it.

The fusible link was a good suggestion.

Also could be the voltage regulator, which is integral to the PCM. No use replacing the alternator if the PCM actually needs to be replaced (also expensive BTW).

Phil

WARNING- "DESERTBOB" is a ricer who drives an aging, rotted 1970's Honda car- he knows nothing about Mopars and his tech advice is lies and BS- BEWARE- he is a poser

snipped-for-privacy@epix.net

Thanks to your reports to Google Groups, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com has been banned by Google Groups from polluting Usenet anymore.

Some time ago, Dan Stern posted a procedure to disconnect the wiring from the field terminals, and apply power directly from the battery as a method of testing the alternator. It may be available on allpar.com.

Is your 2003 now out of warranty? If the PCM is not energizing the alternator correctly, it may be expensive to replace.

-KM

The van is making a loud whining noise. I don't know exactly what the dealership checked, the machanic just told me it was the alternator. He said he put something metalto the alternator and the other end to his ear and it was definetly coming from the alternator.

I forgot to add that the engine is a 3.8 and yes, unforturnately, the van is out of warranty.

The ol' stethoscope test. Could be bad slip rings and/or front bearing, but this seems to be rare to me. How many miles on the vehicle?

Ok, I'll jump in here. I had a VERY similar experience, albeit on a Ford Windstar, 3.8L with a bad alternator, I was quoted almost $480, but it included a battery cable for $105. When I asked, I was told that the alternator was $279, $105 for the cable, and $96 for labor(1.5 hours). The problem they said was the sideways mount of the engine, making the alternator belt inaccessible. The alternator they wanted to use was a ford rebuilt, with a 90 day warrantee. The one that was in it, and not working, was a NAPA rebuilt, with a lifetime warranty. The shop would not let me take the old one down, and bring back a working alternator, it had to be a theirs. I got fed up, went to the NAPA dealer, and spent $30 for a long thin bar used to reach the alternator belt tensioner. It took me 6 minutes to pull the old alternator with hand tools, 3 minutes to exchange it for no cost, and 6 minutes to put it back in and hook up the battery. After 15 minutes and $30, I had another "lifetime" alternator. I then purchased a $5 battery cable, and spliced in the extra ground wire from the old cable, and installed it in about 10 minutes. My advice:

1. Buy a rebuilt alternator.
2. Find someone reasonable to install it, or do it yourself.
3. Save 200 dollars.

Al G

That alternator has a clutch on it and when it develops a problem it can make some strange noises, especially when you shut the engine off

Glenn

That's very interesting, but did you miss the part about the vehicle being a Chrysler minivan? I think the problem is that (at least with the 3.3 and

3.8 engines) removal of the alternator is somewhat more complex. Even if one can unbolt it, it is not clear how you get the unit out from its position behind the front intake plumbing.

Although I am not the person who began this thread, I was rather hoping someone would post a clear explanation of how this task is accomplished.

The job of the posters on Usenet is not to be a service manual. Surely, you have the service manual. Alternatively, you may buy the service manual. It's nice to have them ahead of time.

I had the exact same 'whinning' problem about 6 months ago. I replaced it myself without much trouble. I think the hardest thing was getting enough leverage to remove and replace the belt. I've always had the feeling the noise was coming from the pulley damper.

Marvin Stockman

Sorry, that is the pulley damper on the alternator. Make sure the 'new' alternator comes with the damper installed.

Marv> aspj18 wrote: