Hmm, 1969, what kind of vehicle is that?
(I would have guessed 1975 400)
Thanks.
Hmm, 1969, what kind of vehicle is that?
(I would have guessed 1975 400)
Thanks.
Before you apply the goo, you might want to clean things if you can. I've used alcohol and files and screwdrivers and whatever else I can on connections in general. It's amazing that apparently even clean ones get oxydized. There used to be names in electronics like "microphonics" or "gremlins" when things would and would not work and it was hard to know why. If the wires are not broken, just reseating them might scrape off enough oxydation. I've used the goo DS mentions on regular household connections and then you can feel warm sockets become cool because the electrons are moving more swiftly and happily.
BTW, I agree with your analysis of the dealer if the dealer does a good job. My local mechanic had so little equipment he had to send the car to the dealer for the emissions testing. And no way could he test an older car's tranny coputer, for example, except by replacement ;). Not even the local tranny guy seemed all that inclined with firmware. And the dealers sometimes hold back or sit on crucial info as the independents are complaining, about 60% in the last poll I saw in the newspapers. In another post I wrote about a great dealer but I had the version number of the firmware firmly in hand before I bent their poor ears. Nice folks though.
A small number of European cars (VW...) appeared with an early version of Bosch D-Jetronic EFI that year. Over the next few years, use of D-Jetronic spread to include Mercedes and Volvo (both starting in '71) and others. GM ripped off D-Jetronic so completely for their '77 Seville that many components actually interchange.
400...?DS
The first "Lean Burn" computer controlled engine was the 400, IIRC.
Pin-type connectors on engine computers generally respond well to a dozen-pack of standard wooden pencils. Push the eraser straight down onto each pin, then pull it straight up, move over to the next pin(s) and repeat, changing to a new pencil when the eraser you're working with gets tattered.
I think the GB people who make Ox-Gard ought to replace their present descriptive blurb with yours. :-)
DS
LOL! That's probably the description printed on the packaging of Ox-Gard's Japanese competitor's product when packaged for sale in English-speaking countries.
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')
Naw, that would read more like this:
It is the electron happiness in harmony. For results that can being the finest, it is our recommending that: Never to squeeze these two times! If you will applicate to the disrobed wire and then tightening, you will have a happy feeling!
DS
By Jove - I think you've got it! 8^)
Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my adddress with the letter 'x')
That's right, Steve !
Thanks, Daniel !
I love it ! Thanks, Daniel.
It reminds me of spam from The Orient, translated into English worse than Babelfish.
"This will give you partener multiple penises with bigger orgasm for all!"
Same here. On a package of kelp: "It is the seaweed plant. The tastes is offensive and fresh-delicious. The god for gnarl, goiter and."
Ok, I found the Ox-Gard, took out the SBEC (PCM) or Engine Control Module, took it out and checked the pins. They really looked very good, no corrosion, shiny and clean. I applied the Ox-Gard and put it back together. We'll see what happens. While I had the everything apart I checked the wires pretty well and did not see any obvious problems. After I got it back together, I started it up and again checked the wires and lightly tapped the computer to see if I could cause the car to stop or at least skip a beat. No luck, so I'll drive it and see if it stops again.
thanks, Nick
Nick, The dealer has a tool called "co-pilot" that is used to locate intermittent problems such as the one you are having. It snaps a picture of what the PCM was doing when the problem occured. All you do is push a button when it acts up and then the data is downloaded and read, If the technician cant see what caused it he can send the data off to Chrysler to have it read. It is a very good tool for this kind of problem. Normally the charge would be 1 hr labor
Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech
There y'go.
DS
Update: I've also had a problem starting this van. I would have to turn the key off and on 2 to 3 times before it would start. It would crank fine but just not fire. After consulting with this board and nearly eliminating all other issues, I was convinced I might have a leaking injector(s). But since I applied the Ox-Gard and put it back together, the car starts on the first key on. It still cranks a second or so, but I don't have to turn the key off and back on a few times. The pins looked good. The only thing I can think of is maybe some pin(s) were compressed together and not making a good connection. I noticed the pin(s) are notched and maybe some were too close together. Sounds like a long shot, but that's the only thing I did. We'll see.
thanks, Nick
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