Suspension parts for 300M with Performance Handling Package

Even if the aftermarket shocks have improved in quality over the years,
there still seem to be none available for vehicles with the Performance
Handling Package, so it looks as though I would need to get the genuine
Mopar ones. And the genuine ones can only be bought as separate items --
no complete "quick strut" assemblies. But that seems to mean buying the
genuine Mopar spring isolators/insulators as well, as the aftermarket
ones all seem to have the note "exc. Performance Handling Package" or
"w/o Performance Handling Package" -- different spring diameter?
That means compressing the springs to disassemble and reassemble the
strut assembly. Do AutoZone and the like lend tools (e.g., spring
compressors) if one is not buying parts for which the tool is needed?
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
yes.and rentals companies also rent them by the day
and there's this option as well.
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Reply to
Suggest you read this thread:
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I've summarized it below. Not terribly useful, except it tells you that there is no difference (physically) in how php and non-php struts bolt up to the car.
Most likely the only difference is the stiffness of the coil spring - the php is likely has a larger diameter spring. If you have a good pair of calipers and measure the diameter of the coil (the diameter of the rod that is twisted to make the coil) I can do the same on the monroe's that I have now, and also my originals (which I still have stored away). If I remember, this diameter looked to be something like 1/2 inch or maybe 5/8 inch.
Unless you have some compelling reason to keep the stock stiffness of the php (and you like the more jarring or harsh ride quality) then only you can decide if it's worth it to combine what-ever parts are available from the dealer and aftermarket and your existing struts (maybe top bearing and spring) and put together a satisfactory simulation of the original php strut.
I have a knocking sound (that I can also feel) that is coming from the front driver's side tire when I drive over uneven pavement at city driving speed. I have replaced:
- right lower control arm - right tension strut and strut bushings - right wheel bearing - right and left front strut assemblies (Monroe Quick Strut) - reworked / modified both front swaybar bushings - right sway bar end-link (left link is maybe 5 years old)
I suspect that the top strut bearing is where the cause of the knocking is, and that perhaps the Monroe quick-struts are somehow faulty. But I had this knock previously with the original factory struts (but remember that the right-side failed while driving).
The other possible cause are the front sub-frame isolation bushings, and/or the engine mounts - neither are something that looks easy to replace.
I haven't done anything with the steering arms / tie-rod end links. They don't seem to be the cause of the knocking, and I detect no play or looseness in steering.
================= Q: What is the difference going to be in the struts anyway?
A: The difference is in the dampening. From what I've been told, it's a stiffer ride, slightly less forgiving.
Q: Are they physically the same - as in non-PHG struts will bolt in to a PHG vehicle?
A: Bolt in Yes, ride quality will be different between the two. As our cars age OEM support is going away. Some OEM struts are getting harder to get.
Q: So what struts should I get to replace mine?
A: OEM only if you want to maintain ride quality. Aftermarket struts and mounts do not have a good track recors around here. Some "search" and read recommended. (July 23rd, 2013)
A: Rock Auto had some moog quick struts with PHP or w/o PHP. In either case, the bearings and top mounts have to be swapped for OEM. so....
A: Technically there is no listing in the aftermarket for front struts for PHP and Specials..... If it were me I would install the blue Monroe Economatic quick struts. I put these in my sons car about 15k ago and have had no issues. Another option is OEM. Call Dealer with last 8 of you VIN and then try shopping online dealers for better price
MacPherson Strut spring compressors are pretty cheap. I bought one for $22 a couple years ago, and I see that Harbor Freight sells one for $15.
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That said, I've tried to disassemble my original struts, and while it's easy to compress the springs with the compressor, I haven't been able to undue the strut nut and actually take the thing apart. But eventually I want to, because I want to check out the condition of the top strut mounts and bearings and possibly re-use them on the monroe's I have now, and see if that makes the knocking go away.
I have the factory service manual for the 300m in PDF format - do you want me to give you a link to where you can download it?
Reply to
MoPar Man
How well does mixing and matching work? E.g., stiffer sway bar with not-so-stiff struts? And if I change the front struts for non-PHP ones, would it be essential to change the rear ones as well?
Looking at a couple of online Mopar vendors' Web sites, I don't see different kinds of spring insulators/isolators, so why would AutoZone etc. say that the ones they sell are not for vehicles with the PHP?
I've bought some stuff from Hazard Fraught, but a strut spring compressor is the kind of thing that could do nasty things if it gave way while in use.
I already have the FSM, thanks. Maybe it was from you that I got it before.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
I have the more expensive spring compressor listed on that web site, and it works well, but it was only around 35 bucks when I bought it.. the cheaper one is most likely what you will rent or borrow from someone else.
Reply to
I bought Moog strut assemblies but replaced the mounts and bearings by OEM ones, since the gurus say that all the after-market assemblies use identical left and right mounts whereas the OEM ones are different (same component parts but assembled differently and distinguished by a white paint blob on the RH one). I could definitely see that the Moog mounts did not match the OEM ones. I haven't yet pulled the old strut assemblies apart to get at the bearings to see if they are in fact still good, but I know that some people reused theirs.
While I was about it, I replaced the inner and outer tie-rod ends and the sway-bar links. It's all much quieter now. Even though I had counted exposed threads on the tie-bar adjusters and used the same settings again, it was visibly out of alignment at first, but I got it back reasonably close then got a proper alignment done.
I bought the rear struts as well (also Moog), but they'll have to wait for warmer weather.
Costco has my snow tires, but they aren't answering their phone for me to make an appointment for installation.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
I thought I read somewhere that the OEM mounts were somewhat rare to come by. I assume they're only available through Chrysler?
Would the PHP and non-PHP be the same P/N for the mounts?
Not sure if I follow.
Do you mean that a Moog quick-strut and Monroe quick-strut use the same mounts?
Was there any reason you chose Moog over Monroe?
I assume you got the quick-strut (complete assembly with spring, ready to install)?
You had some concerns about possible differences in spring stiffness between your PHP and aftermarket - yes? How do you find the ride with the Moog's ?
How would / how could the mounts be so different? Wouldn't you end up with a different ride-height if they were measurably different?
I don't get it. You were able to swap the Moog mounts with new OEM ones, yet you say that the Moog mounts didn't match the OEM ones. If they didn't match, how could you swap them?
How badly rusted were your original struts? Particularly the weld that connects the lower spring mounting plate to the strut?
I think I'm going to pick up some OEM mounts at some point, see if I can't replace the ones that came with the Monroe's I put on a couple years ago. Can it be done by dropping the strut while it's still connected to everything?
Reply to
MoPar Man
I bought them from -- but initially they sent identical ones but labeled as left and right. It took them a while to find the correct RH one.
I think so.
The mount consists of two steel parts riveted together with a rubber part between them. The orientation of the rubber part determines whether it is a LH or RH mount. Only visual inspection and the presence or absence of the paint blob can distinguish them: the upper metal part even has both part numbers on it, but one followed by "black" and the other by "white". You didn't save your original mounts and bearings when you installed the Monroe strut assemblies? They might still be/have been usable.
I haven't seen the Monroe ones, but everything I have read says that *all* the after-market mounts are the same for both sides. If you look at any of the online vendors, you'll see that for any given make they show only one mount -- no distinct LH and RH ones.
I've seen reports that the after-market mounts are worthless after only months. Your Monroe ones apparently have lasted longer, but I relied on what I had read. And I assumed that the Chrysler engineers had a good reason to specify non-identical mounts.
The "gurus" said that the Moog ones are closer to the PHP ones from the point of view of ride quality.
Yes. But I had to take them apart to fit the OEM mounts and bearings.
They seem fine to me.
See above: there is no difference in height. The difference is in the orientation of the rubber part, which I assume affects the seating of the spring.
They are pretty rusty, but nothing had actually failed. I've seen pictures of some that failed completely, which had a serious braking effect on the wheel: spring forces mounting plate against tire.
I don't see that that would be possible: I'm sure there wouldn't be room to get spring compressors in there or to get the old mounts out and the new ones in.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
According to this:
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----------- Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782019AC) Discontinued Part
No Longer Available For Purchase
Product Description
Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left for your 2000 Chrysler 300M Base with a 3.5L V6 - Gas. We also sell Suspension and Shocks and Struts. Suspension and Shocks and StrutsThis is a genuine OEM Chrysler part #478-2019AC and carries a factory warranty. We offer the best online prices with fast shipping with any order placed with us. -----------
The right strut mount:
Suspension Strut Mount, Front Right - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782018AB)
They apparently have. Selling it for $78.57.
Someone is selling a new left strut mount 4782019AC on ebay right now - but they're saying its for a 01-02 Intrepid - so I'm a little confused if this would work on '00 300m.
The factory service manual shows the "upper mount" and the "seat and bearing" to be two different parts.
But I don't see the mount and bearing being sold as two different parts. For example, this seems to show the combined mount and bearing:
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So I assume that what you bought looked like that picture (a mount with 4 bolts and a bearing).
The service manual shows the use of a special tool 6864 (which looks like an offset socket) to remove the shaft nut from the strut. How did you remove the shaft nut on your moogs to install the OEM mount?
From what you've read, can OEM (MoPar) mounts be swapped into the Monroe quickstrut?
I still have my original struts - I tried to remove the strut nut from one of them but without the "special tool" I can only resort to using a 1/4" socket (with 1/4" drive extension) passing through the center of a 1/2" spark-plug socket (with hex flats that I can grab with a wrench) to remove the nut, but last I tried I couldn't move the nut, so the nut and socket are still sitting on the strut (and the spring compressors are still compressing the spring) and the strut is sitting somewhere in the garage.
The way I see it:
- Jack the car up, take the wheel off, lower the hub so it rests on a block of wood, let the weight of the car compress the spring
- mount the spring compressors, tighten them up more if possible
- from the engine compartment, remove the strut nut, then remove the 4 nuts holding the strut to the body
- jack the car back up to get some clearance, springs remain compressed, but strut is now free to move down, maybe 6 inches at least?
- Now - with strut nut off, can strut mount be lifted off and replaced with new OEM mount?
Reply to
MoPar Man
The number they told me for my '02 model was 4782019AB (B not C), but I don't see that on their site now either. Perhaps I bought the last one. However, some of the ones they had labeled as 4782018AB (the right-hand one) were in fact the left-hand ones.
There are other on-line discount MoPar parts vendors, but I don't recall the names now. Try Google.
Don't know for sure, but I'd be surprised if there was a significant change from '00 to '01-'02. As far as 300M vs. Intrepid is concerned, I think it's just a matter of body styling and gizmos.
The seats and bearings were separate. "Seat and Bearing Assembly": 68140264AA.
I had read that some people had used Oxygen Sensor wrenches. I did borrow one from AutoZone but then read the on-line reviews where some people complained that they were somewhat fragile, so I didn't use it. There are now "thru-sockets," such as the Craftsman "MaxAxess" (seem to be rebranded GearWrench) and the Kobalt "Xtreme Access" from Lowe's. To remove and replace the mounts on the Moogs I used a 1/2-in.-drive 22mm thru-socket and 3-in. extension from Lowes and was able to get a 3/8-in.-drive 10mm socket inside to hold the end of the shaft -- but the sequence is important: 22mm thru-socket, 10mm socket, 1/2-in. drive thru-extension, and then insert the 3/8-in. drive extension. The Lowes thru-sockets and extensions can be driven with a 7/8-in. box wrench or crow-foot wrench, the latter allowing the use of a torque wrench. BUT the protrusion on the OEM assemblies is less, so I may have to use a 1/4"-drive 10mm socket on the shaft nut.
As far as I know, yes.
I haven't made much of an attempt so far to disassemble the old strut assemblies to retrieve the old mounts, bearings and seats (more particularly the latter two), and to relieve the spring pressure before I donate them to the local rescue mission to sell as scrap (in case they get the bright idea of trying to cut everything apart without relieving the spring pressure first). At least one person cut through the shaft -- after compressing the springs -- but the shaft is hardened and a metal-saw blade didn't make much of an impression on it: maybe an abrasive cutting disc would work better.
I guess you could try it.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
If I choose the 2002 model on the Web site, it shows the same mounts that they sold me as available, but if I click to show the list of compatible models, they skip from 1999 to 2002. Strange! But maybe there was an important change and then they changed back again.
If you enter your VIN on most of the genuine Mopar vendors' Web sites, they'll show you the correct part number. And that's important because there can be mid-year changes.
BUT now see above.
I disassembled one strut assembly with little difficulty, but the nut on the second one is so corroded that the 22mm socket just slips on it, and I don't have a thru-socket the right size to grip it. Maybe it's time to get out that abrasive wheel.
BTW, I broke a 1/4" extension on the first one, so be prepared.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
Both bearings and seats and the left-hand mount seem fine, although if I were going to reuse the bearings (or *when* I reuse them, *if* I keep the car long enough) I would clean them up and repack them with grease. The RH mount is much more rusty, and in any case it's still attached to a piece of the shaft, so it's going to the rescue mission as scrap along with the rest.
Both jounce bumpers and shrouds also seem fine, but they're probably not worth saving.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
I've just received something I ordered from ebay that claimed to be an OEM left mount - Very Rare!
I'm not sure what I got was a genuine mopar part - maybe you can tell me.
It appears to be just the mount (no bearing). It has a blue paper tag on it attached with a wire tied to one of the mounting bolts. One side of the tag must have had a sticker on it that was torn away, taking most of that side of the tag with it. The other side has this:
-------------- Stock indentication tag do not remove this tag or pick this piece for orders
Part no. 04782019AB (the PN number is hand written in pen) Description (nothing written here except "1 PC") Location Sec. Bin. Inspection O.K. 63552
Reply to
MoPar Man
I would check the orientation of the rubber "ears" against the pictures in the service manual, but my guess is that that *is* a left-hand mount. It sounds exactly the same as my left-hand mounts -- both the original one and the new one I got from no MoPar or Pentastar markings.
The "white" is supposed to indicate that if it has a blob of white paint on it it is a right-hand mount -- with those rubber "ears" in a different orientation.
BTW, did you take note of my first message of 12/11/2014 where I pointed out that these particular mounts are not listed for 2000 and 2001 models? I assume they made a change for those years then changed back again.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
I'm looking at the diagram in the manual (ELH_2.pdf). Page 13. The diagram (Figure 3 - Left Front Strut Upper Mount) has a serial number (80b34e0d) printed under it. There are a couple of arrows pointing to something indicated by #2 (Rubber tabs).
The part I bought off ebay does indeed have the rubber tabs as indicated by the arrows, in the same relationship as the square hole (a Notch, indicated by #1) near the outside rim of the mount (at the 10 0'clock position according to the manual). My part does have this square hole exactly as indicated. These tabs are almost exactly in-line with 2 of the mounting studs (again matching the diagram).
Ah. My part has no white paint blob.
I sort of did notice that, and indeed the ebay page where I found my part did have a pull-down selection menu that did say that this part was not for a '00 300m. But other part-selector sites on the net did seem to indicate that this part *was* for a '00 300m, so I took a chance and bought it.
Regarding this ambiguity, did you ever look for what IS supposed to be the part number for a '00 300m left strut mount if 04782019AB is not it?
Also - what about the rest of this upper assembly? What do you know about aftermarket vs OEM bearing and seat assemblies?
Are there differences between left and right?
Do you know the OEM P/N? Are they readily available?
Also -
Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other words, will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by a wire?
Reply to
MoPar Man
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Looks significantly different from the 2002 model.
For mine the left and right were the same. WeRMopar gave me the part number, but yours could be different if the mounts are different, as they appear to be.
On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into the body of the strut.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
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From your link, is this diagram (PNG image):
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Parts are identified as 1 through 9. Can you explain why it appears to separate the upper mount into 2 parts (7 and 9) ???
There is no way that I can see how the upper mount can be separated into those 2 parts without destroying it. You will note that in the accompanying parts list to the right of the diagram they do not list part #7, and part #9 is referred to as "4782228AA / 4782233AA SPRING INSULATOR LOWER / UPPER.
You will note that the diagram does not show the bearing or dust cover.
So they've screwed up the diagram. Part #7 is the upper mount, and Part #9 is the spring insulator - but the upper insulator should be drawn UNDER the upper mount - not above it.
And as I've just said above - they don't have the mount listed, and therefore we don't know it's P/N.
**** HOWEVER ****
I can confirm that the mount that I bought off ebay which the seller claimed was NOT for '00 300m, which I described as having this stamped into it:
04782019AB Black 04782018AB White 99201
Matches my original mount EXACTLY (same numbers stamped into it, exactly the same way).
And for what it's worth, there was still a couple of paper stickers on the top surface of my original left-side mount (same surface where those numbers are stamped) that had a barcode with this number: P04895155AE
Nothing turns up on a web-search for that number.
I had given my original left strut to my brother to take apart. He removed the strut nut with an air socket - and he prevented the shaft from turning by grabbing it with vice grips from the *under-side* of the upper mount.
Now Perce - explain this:
Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?
Can the bearing be bought separately?
What year is your 300m?
Mine is '00, and (as I've written above) my upper strut mount is exactly the same (same P/N) has is being claimed for other model years.
If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?
Were the dust covers attached to them? Permenently?
Reply to
MoPar Man
That link does not work for me, so I can't comment on your questions about that diagram.

Was there a change part-way through the model year?
I used the new boots that came with the Moog strut assemblies.
Late 2002: Delivered May 1, 2002. Some parts, I have already discovered, are the same as the '03 models rather than the earlier '02 models.
Bearing and Seat: 68140264AA. The same both sides. The boots are separate.
If you enter the VIN at, it should show you the correct part numbers for everything.
Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy
You might find this interesting:
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Starting around post 99.
I think I have the clunking problem - probably don't need a new mount.
I can't figure out from reading that (and the thread on 300mclub) if the washer fix is for the shock absorber rod/nut, or for one (or more) of the upper strut mounting studs.
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And then there's this:
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The shock rod needs to be seated - is it square?
I'm going to have to check this rod nut tommorrow.
Reply to
MoPar Man

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