Even if the aftermarket shocks have improved in quality over the years,
there still seem to be none available for vehicles with the Performance
Handling Package, so it looks as though I would need to get the genuine
Mopar ones. And the genuine ones can only be bought as separate items --
no complete "quick strut" assemblies. But that seems to mean buying the
genuine Mopar spring isolators/insulators as well, as the aftermarket
ones all seem to have the note "exc. Performance Handling Package" or
"w/o Performance Handling Package" -- different spring diameter?
That means compressing the springs to disassemble and reassemble the
strut assembly. Do AutoZone and the like lend tools (e.g., spring
compressors) if one is not buying parts for which the tool is needed?
I've summarized it below. Not terribly useful, except it tells you that
there is no difference (physically) in how php and non-php struts bolt
up to the car.
Most likely the only difference is the stiffness of the coil spring -
the php is likely has a larger diameter spring. If you have a good pair
of calipers and measure the diameter of the coil (the diameter of the
rod that is twisted to make the coil) I can do the same on the monroe's
that I have now, and also my originals (which I still have stored
away). If I remember, this diameter looked to be something like 1/2
inch or maybe 5/8 inch.
Unless you have some compelling reason to keep the stock stiffness of
the php (and you like the more jarring or harsh ride quality) then only
you can decide if it's worth it to combine what-ever parts are available
from the dealer and aftermarket and your existing struts (maybe top
bearing and spring) and put together a satisfactory simulation of the
original php strut.
I have a knocking sound (that I can also feel) that is coming from the
front driver's side tire when I drive over uneven pavement at city
driving speed. I have replaced:
- right lower control arm
- right tension strut and strut bushings
- right wheel bearing
- right and left front strut assemblies (Monroe Quick Strut)
- reworked / modified both front swaybar bushings
- right sway bar end-link (left link is maybe 5 years old)
I suspect that the top strut bearing is where the cause of the knocking
is, and that perhaps the Monroe quick-struts are somehow faulty. But I
had this knock previously with the original factory struts (but remember
that the right-side failed while driving).
The other possible cause are the front sub-frame isolation bushings,
and/or the engine mounts - neither are something that looks easy to
I haven't done anything with the steering arms / tie-rod end links.
They don't seem to be the cause of the knocking, and I detect no play or
looseness in steering.
Q: What is the difference going to be in the struts anyway?
A: The difference is in the dampening. From what I've been told,
it's a stiffer ride, slightly less forgiving.
Q: Are they physically the same - as in non-PHG struts will bolt
in to a PHG vehicle?
A: Bolt in Yes, ride quality will be different between the two. As
our cars age OEM support is going away. Some OEM struts are
getting harder to get.
Q: So what struts should I get to replace mine?
A: OEM only if you want to maintain ride quality. Aftermarket struts
and mounts do not have a good track recors around here.
Some "search" and read recommended. (July 23rd, 2013)
A: Rock Auto had some moog quick struts with PHP or w/o PHP. In
either case, the bearings and top mounts have to be swapped
for OEM. so....
A: Technically there is no listing in the aftermarket for front
struts for PHP and Specials..... If it were me I would install
the blue Monroe Economatic quick struts. I put these in my
sons car about 15k ago and have had no issues. Another option
is OEM. Call Dealer with last 8 of you VIN and then try shopping
online dealers for better price
MacPherson Strut spring compressors are pretty cheap. I bought one for
$22 a couple years ago, and I see that Harbor Freight sells one for $15.
That said, I've tried to disassemble my original struts, and while it's
easy to compress the springs with the compressor, I haven't been able to
undue the strut nut and actually take the thing apart. But eventually I
want to, because I want to check out the condition of the top strut
mounts and bearings and possibly re-use them on the monroe's I have now,
and see if that makes the knocking go away.
I have the factory service manual for the 300m in PDF format - do you
want me to give you a link to where you can download it?
How well does mixing and matching work? E.g., stiffer sway bar with
not-so-stiff struts? And if I change the front struts for non-PHP ones,
would it be essential to change the rear ones as well?
Looking at a couple of online Mopar vendors' Web sites, I don't see
different kinds of spring insulators/isolators, so why would AutoZone
etc. say that the ones they sell are not for vehicles with the PHP?
I've bought some stuff from Hazard Fraught, but a strut spring
compressor is the kind of thing that could do nasty things if it gave
way while in use.
I already have the FSM, thanks. Maybe it was from you that I got it before.
I have the more expensive spring compressor listed on that web site, and it
works well, but it was only around 35 bucks when I bought it.. the cheaper
one is most likely what you will rent or borrow from someone else.
I bought Moog strut assemblies but replaced the mounts and bearings by
OEM ones, since the gurus say that all the after-market assemblies use
identical left and right mounts whereas the OEM ones are different (same
component parts but assembled differently and distinguished by a white
paint blob on the RH one). I could definitely see that the Moog mounts
did not match the OEM ones. I haven't yet pulled the old strut
assemblies apart to get at the bearings to see if they are in fact still
good, but I know that some people reused theirs.
While I was about it, I replaced the inner and outer tie-rod ends and
the sway-bar links. It's all much quieter now. Even though I had counted
exposed threads on the tie-bar adjusters and used the same settings
again, it was visibly out of alignment at first, but I got it back
reasonably close then got a proper alignment done.
I bought the rear struts as well (also Moog), but they'll have to wait
for warmer weather.
Costco has my snow tires, but they aren't answering their phone for me
to make an appointment for installation.
I thought I read somewhere that the OEM mounts were somewhat rare to
come by. I assume they're only available through Chrysler?
Would the PHP and non-PHP be the same P/N for the mounts?
Not sure if I follow.
Do you mean that a Moog quick-strut and Monroe quick-strut use the same
Was there any reason you chose Moog over Monroe?
I assume you got the quick-strut (complete assembly with spring, ready
You had some concerns about possible differences in spring stiffness
between your PHP and aftermarket - yes? How do you find the ride with
the Moog's ?
How would / how could the mounts be so different? Wouldn't you end up
with a different ride-height if they were measurably different?
I don't get it. You were able to swap the Moog mounts with new OEM
ones, yet you say that the Moog mounts didn't match the OEM ones. If
they didn't match, how could you swap them?
How badly rusted were your original struts? Particularly the weld that
connects the lower spring mounting plate to the strut?
I think I'm going to pick up some OEM mounts at some point, see if I
can't replace the ones that came with the Monroe's I put on a couple
years ago. Can it be done by dropping the strut while it's still
connected to everything?
I bought them from wermopar.com -- but initially they sent identical
ones but labeled as left and right. It took them a while to find the
correct RH one.
I think so.
The mount consists of two steel parts riveted together with a rubber
part between them. The orientation of the rubber part determines whether
it is a LH or RH mount. Only visual inspection and the presence or
absence of the paint blob can distinguish them: the upper metal part
even has both part numbers on it, but one followed by "black" and the
other by "white". You didn't save your original mounts and bearings when
you installed the Monroe strut assemblies? They might still be/have been
I haven't seen the Monroe ones, but everything I have read says that
*all* the after-market mounts are the same for both sides. If you look
at any of the online vendors, you'll see that for any given make they
show only one mount -- no distinct LH and RH ones.
I've seen reports that the after-market mounts are worthless after only
months. Your Monroe ones apparently have lasted longer, but I relied on
what I had read. And I assumed that the Chrysler engineers had a good
reason to specify non-identical mounts.
The "gurus" said that the Moog ones are closer to the PHP ones from the
point of view of ride quality.
Yes. But I had to take them apart to fit the OEM mounts and bearings.
They seem fine to me.
See above: there is no difference in height. The difference is in the
orientation of the rubber part, which I assume affects the seating of
They are pretty rusty, but nothing had actually failed. I've seen
pictures of some that failed completely, which had a serious braking
effect on the wheel: spring forces mounting plate against tire.
I don't see that that would be possible: I'm sure there wouldn't be room
to get spring compressors in there or to get the old mounts out and the
new ones in.
Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782019AC)
No Longer Available For Purchase
Suspension Strut Mount, Front Left for your 2000 Chrysler 300M Base with
a 3.5L V6 - Gas. We also sell Suspension and Shocks and Struts.
Suspension and Shocks and StrutsThis is a genuine OEM Chrysler part
#478-2019AC and carries a factory warranty. We offer the best online
prices with fast shipping with any order placed with us.
The right strut mount:
Suspension Strut Mount, Front Right - 2000 Chrysler 300M (4782018AB)
They apparently have. Selling it for $78.57.
Someone is selling a new left strut mount 4782019AC on ebay right now -
but they're saying its for a 01-02 Intrepid - so I'm a little confused
if this would work on '00 300m.
The factory service manual shows the "upper mount" and the "seat and
bearing" to be two different parts.
But I don't see the mount and bearing being sold as two different
parts. For example, this seems to show the combined mount and bearing:
So I assume that what you bought looked like that picture (a mount with
4 bolts and a bearing).
The service manual shows the use of a special tool 6864 (which looks
like an offset socket) to remove the shaft nut from the strut. How did
you remove the shaft nut on your moogs to install the OEM mount?
From what you've read, can OEM (MoPar) mounts be swapped into the Monroe
I still have my original struts - I tried to remove the strut nut from
one of them but without the "special tool" I can only resort to using a
1/4" socket (with 1/4" drive extension) passing through the center of a
1/2" spark-plug socket (with hex flats that I can grab with a wrench) to
remove the nut, but last I tried I couldn't move the nut, so the nut and
socket are still sitting on the strut (and the spring compressors are
still compressing the spring) and the strut is sitting somewhere in the
The way I see it:
- Jack the car up, take the wheel off, lower the hub so it
rests on a block of wood, let the weight of the car compress
- mount the spring compressors, tighten them up more if possible
- from the engine compartment, remove the strut nut, then
remove the 4 nuts holding the strut to the body
- jack the car back up to get some clearance, springs remain
compressed, but strut is now free to move down, maybe 6
inches at least?
- Now - with strut nut off, can strut mount be lifted off
and replaced with new OEM mount?
The number they told me for my '02 model was 4782019AB (B not C), but I
don't see that on their site now either. Perhaps I bought the last one.
However, some of the ones they had labeled as 4782018AB (the right-hand
one) were in fact the left-hand ones.
There are other on-line discount MoPar parts vendors, but I don't recall
the names now. Try Google.
Don't know for sure, but I'd be surprised if there was a significant
change from '00 to '01-'02. As far as 300M vs. Intrepid is concerned, I
think it's just a matter of body styling and gizmos.
The seats and bearings were separate. "Seat and Bearing Assembly":
I had read that some people had used Oxygen Sensor wrenches. I did
borrow one from AutoZone but then read the on-line reviews where some
people complained that they were somewhat fragile, so I didn't use it.
There are now "thru-sockets," such as the Craftsman "MaxAxess" (seem to
be rebranded GearWrench) and the Kobalt "Xtreme Access" from Lowe's. To
remove and replace the mounts on the Moogs I used a 1/2-in.-drive 22mm
thru-socket and 3-in. extension from Lowes and was able to get a
3/8-in.-drive 10mm socket inside to hold the end of the shaft -- but the
sequence is important: 22mm thru-socket, 10mm socket, 1/2-in. drive
thru-extension, and then insert the 3/8-in. drive extension. The Lowes
thru-sockets and extensions can be driven with a 7/8-in. box wrench or
crow-foot wrench, the latter allowing the use of a torque wrench. BUT
the protrusion on the OEM assemblies is less, so I may have to use a
1/4"-drive 10mm socket on the shaft nut.
As far as I know, yes.
I haven't made much of an attempt so far to disassemble the old strut
assemblies to retrieve the old mounts, bearings and seats (more
particularly the latter two), and to relieve the spring pressure before
I donate them to the local rescue mission to sell as scrap (in case they
get the bright idea of trying to cut everything apart without relieving
the spring pressure first). At least one person cut through the shaft --
after compressing the springs -- but the shaft is hardened and a
metal-saw blade didn't make much of an impression on it: maybe an
abrasive cutting disc would work better.
I guess you could try it.
If I choose the 2002 model on the wermopar.com Web site, it shows the
same mounts that they sold me as available, but if I click to show the
list of compatible models, they skip from 1999 to 2002. Strange! But
maybe there was an important change and then they changed back again.
If you enter your VIN on most of the genuine Mopar vendors' Web sites,
they'll show you the correct part number. And that's important because
there can be mid-year changes.
BUT now see above.
I disassembled one strut assembly with little difficulty, but the nut on
the second one is so corroded that the 22mm socket just slips on it, and
I don't have a thru-socket the right size to grip it. Maybe it's time
to get out that abrasive wheel.
BTW, I broke a 1/4" extension on the first one, so be prepared.
Both bearings and seats and the left-hand mount seem fine, although if I
were going to reuse the bearings (or *when* I reuse them, *if* I keep
the car long enough) I would clean them up and repack them with grease.
The RH mount is much more rusty, and in any case it's still attached to
a piece of the shaft, so it's going to the rescue mission as scrap along
with the rest.
Both jounce bumpers and shrouds also seem fine, but they're probably not
I've just received something I ordered from ebay that claimed to be an
OEM left mount - Very Rare!
I'm not sure what I got was a genuine mopar part - maybe you can tell
It appears to be just the mount (no bearing). It has a blue paper tag
on it attached with a wire tied to one of the mounting bolts. One side
of the tag must have had a sticker on it that was torn away, taking most
of that side of the tag with it. The other side has this:
Stock indentication tag
do not remove this tag or pick this piece for orders
Part no. 04782019AB (the PN number is hand written in pen)
Description (nothing written here except "1 PC")
Inspection O.K. 63552
I would check the orientation of the rubber "ears" against the pictures
in the service manual, but my guess is that that *is* a left-hand mount.
It sounds exactly the same as my left-hand mounts -- both the original
one and the new one I got from wermopar.com: no MoPar or Pentastar markings.
The "white" is supposed to indicate that if it has a blob of white paint
on it it is a right-hand mount -- with those rubber "ears" in a
BTW, did you take note of my first message of 12/11/2014 where I pointed
out that these particular mounts are not listed for 2000 and 2001
models? I assume they made a change for those years then changed back again.
I'm looking at the diagram in the manual (ELH_2.pdf). Page 13. The
diagram (Figure 3 - Left Front Strut Upper Mount) has a serial number
(80b34e0d) printed under it. There are a couple of arrows pointing to
something indicated by #2 (Rubber tabs).
The part I bought off ebay does indeed have the rubber tabs as indicated
by the arrows, in the same relationship as the square hole (a Notch,
indicated by #1) near the outside rim of the mount (at the 10 0'clock
position according to the manual). My part does have this square hole
exactly as indicated. These tabs are almost exactly in-line with 2 of
the mounting studs (again matching the diagram).
Ah. My part has no white paint blob.
I sort of did notice that, and indeed the ebay page where I found my
part did have a pull-down selection menu that did say that this part was
not for a '00 300m. But other part-selector sites on the net did seem
to indicate that this part *was* for a '00 300m, so I took a chance and
Regarding this ambiguity, did you ever look for what IS supposed to be
the part number for a '00 300m left strut mount if 04782019AB is not it?
Also - what about the rest of this upper assembly? What do you know
about aftermarket vs OEM bearing and seat assemblies?
Are there differences between left and right?
Do you know the OEM P/N? Are they readily available?
Do you know if the shock absorbers are "gas charged"? In other words,
will they have a tendency to extend if not restrained by a wire?
Looks significantly different from the 2002 model.
For mine the left and right were the same. WeRMopar gave me the part
number, but yours could be different if the mounts are different, as
they appear to be.
On the one I cut to disassemble, the shaft self-retracted into the body
of the strut.
FRONT SUSPENSION/SUSPENSION COMPONENTS for 2000 Chrysler 300M
Parts are identified as 1 through 9. Can you explain why it appears to
separate the upper mount into 2 parts (7 and 9) ???
There is no way that I can see how the upper mount can be separated into
those 2 parts without destroying it. You will note that in the
accompanying parts list to the right of the diagram they do not list
part #7, and part #9 is referred to as "4782228AA / 4782233AA SPRING
INSULATOR LOWER / UPPER.
You will note that the diagram does not show the bearing or dust cover.
So they've screwed up the diagram. Part #7 is the upper mount, and Part
#9 is the spring insulator - but the upper insulator should be drawn
UNDER the upper mount - not above it.
And as I've just said above - they don't have the mount listed, and
therefore we don't know it's P/N.
**** HOWEVER ****
I can confirm that the mount that I bought off ebay which the seller
claimed was NOT for '00 300m, which I described as having this stamped
04782018AB White 99201
Matches my original mount EXACTLY (same numbers stamped into it, exactly
the same way).
And for what it's worth, there was still a couple of paper stickers on
the top surface of my original left-side mount (same surface where those
numbers are stamped) that had a barcode with this number: P04895155AE
Nothing turns up on a web-search for that number.
I had given my original left strut to my brother to take apart. He
removed the strut nut with an air socket - and he prevented the shaft
from turning by grabbing it with vice grips from the *under-side* of the
Now Perce - explain this:
Can the plastic dust boot be separated from the bearing?
Can the bearing be bought separately?
What year is your 300m?
Mine is '00, and (as I've written above) my upper strut mount is exactly
the same (same P/N) has is being claimed for other model years.
If WerMoPar gave you a P/N for the bearings - what are they?
Were the dust covers attached to them? Permenently?
That link does not work for me, so I can't comment on your questions
about that diagram.
Was there a change part-way through the model year?
I used the new boots that came with the Moog strut assemblies.
Late 2002: Delivered May 1, 2002. Some parts, I have already discovered,
are the same as the '03 models rather than the earlier '02 models.
Bearing and Seat: 68140264AA. The same both sides. The boots are separate.
If you enter the VIN at wermopar.com, it should show you the correct
part numbers for everything.
Starting around post 99.
I think I have the clunking problem - probably don't need a new mount.
I can't figure out from reading that (and the thread on 300mclub) if the
washer fix is for the shock absorber rod/nut, or for one (or more) of
the upper strut mounting studs.
And then there's this:
The shock rod needs to be seated - is it square?
I'm going to have to check this rod nut tommorrow.