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Any difference in appearance of the strut between performance handling package and non-php model of 2000 Chryser 300M?

Hi there I am riding my 2000 300M in Japan (very rare) but I'm not sure if mine is with php or not. I think Chrysler Japan has sold only one model/trim as simply "2000 Chrysler 300M" as mine. No choice, no option at that time.

Mine has 3.5 V6, 16inch rim, front disk brake with rotors that has air inlet outside (wheel lug nut side) of the disk, unlike usual brake disks sold on ebay or somewhere as "for 300M".

Im considering replacing whole strut due to terribly worn and broken isolator and slightly noisy riding recently. But searching for parts on ebay or some other parts sales sites, Ive noticed there are so many struts out there for w/o php!

Hopefully I want to replace strut as a whole because my parts (shocks, spring, mounts, etc) are all like 14yrs old, and want to avoid spring compressing process.

So I have 2 questions,

1, How can I see if my 300M is with php or not? Any difference in appearance? 2, What is the difference between strut parts for php and w/o php? Any difference in diameters? or just a different spring rate or some?

Any suggestion or recommendation would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Reply to
Tokyo 300M
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In the USA the Performance Handling Package included 17-inch wheels. Whether that is a reliable indication for non-North-American cars, I don't know.

I replaced the front struts on my PHP-equipped '02 model with Moog strut assemblies, but I used OEM mounts and bearings because the OEM ones are different (left vs. right), whereas all the after-market ones -- as far as I know -- are the same both sides and tend to fail quickly. I picked the Moog ones because the general opinion is that they are closest in "feel" to the original PHP ones; they seem fine to me. I was able to borrow spring compressors from auto-parts stores; compressing the springs isn't difficult with the right tools, but it's a little tedious.

Perce

Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy

but also very cool

If you have php, then:

- the diameter of the front sway bar will be 1+1/16 inch. non-php will be 1 inch diameter

- wheels will be 16" rims. Stock rims for non-php are 17"

- I'm pretty sure that the diameter of the front coil springs will also be larger on php vs non-php. I can look at my '00 300m original (non-php) and tell you what they are if you want.

It's a complete waste of time to look for a "php" replacement strut. A non-php strut will work just fine, and unless you're name is Mario Andretti you won't notice a difference.

I've replaced both my front struts on my 300m a few years ago.

I just replaced the driver's side front strut a second time a month ago. There was always a knocking coming from that strut that I just couldn't make go away. After replacing a second time, the knocking is gone. The new replacement is made by "Prime Choice" - bought it off their ebay site for $100. Much cheaper than the monroe strut.

I also bought a set of replacement headlights off ebay for $90. They came from Taiwan, and they make the car look brand new!

Reply to
MoPar Man

replying to Percival P. Cassidy, Tokyo 300M wrote: Perce

First of all, I should apologize for my super late replying. In fact I have got the notification mail soon after I questioned but I couldn't find any replies to my question indeed. Since then I have been checking this site everyday to see if I get any answers for my question for the first few weeks, but It looked I got no answers at all somehow. And I happened to come back here today and found answers. I am so sorry anyway.

In the USA the Performance Handling Package included 17-inch wheels. Whether that is a reliable indication for non-North-American cars, I don't know.

In Japan, all 300Ms from MY2001 got 17inch rims as standard, but my 2000 has

16inch. I don't know too if this relates to php or non-php discrimination.

I didn't know that OEM mounts and bearings are different in right and left. And after-market ones tend to fail quickly (That's not really nice). Sounds like I should get new OEM parts (tho I know its so hard nowadays) or re-use some parts from my current OE assemblies but hopefully I want to replace as a whole, though I have a spring compressor and have experienced the procedure on another car while ago (yeah it was not hard nor fun).

Thanks for the info.

Reply to
Tokyo 300M

replying to MoPar Man, Tokyo 300M wrote: Thank you MoPar Man for the comment and really sorry for my late reply due to some reasons I mentioned in the comment to Perce above.

Okay, I will check the diameter of the sway bar later. But as you told me, I think I should go with the parts even it's for "Non-php" only if its completely compatible.

I'm pretty sure that I'm going to buy those parts off ebay (Most of the auto-parts sellers in the states do not ship items to Japan other than "VIA EBAY" unfortunately and ebay is one and only option for me) and the shipping fee and custom are quite expensive no matter how small or big the parts are. So if I do buy from ebay, I'd better buy AT ONCE as a whole strut to make the replacement easier and faster, and also to minimize the shipping cost.

In case I buy off ebay, I have to choose from very limited sellers who ship their items to Japan, such as DetroitAxle, carsteering, buyautoparts, etc.

Do you know anything about sellers above? Thank you.

Reply to
Tokyo 300M

Sorry, Tokyo 300M - it was not your fault. We had an issue with the software that has now been fixed. Cheers!

Reply to
motorsforum

Does your 300M have a VIN (= "Vehicle Identification Number," I assume), or would one sold in Japan not have such a number? If it does, you could enter that number on the Web site of many of the Chrysler/Mopar parts vendors and see the exact part numbers that you need as replacements on your car -- including newer parts that have superseded the original ones.

Perce

Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy

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