where to buy left hand thread lugs?

Do it the easy way. Press out the studs and install RH studs so you can use standard chrome wheel nuts. Even locking nuts if you want.

Yeah, I know, I guess I was skipping a few steps mentally there... but the point is that it is the 13/16" hex ones that I want.

Cool! how did you find that though? the keyword search on Dorman's site seems to be fairly useless, although it does show me good numbers for the 3/4" hex version when I search for my vehicle. However I did manage to take your part number and find that it was used on old Jeeps and IH which is good to know, it may prove useful someday. I don't remember my dad's old Scout having LH lugs though... maybe it had already had its first brake job before he got it?

That said, I would prefer to use something like the chromed ones that were used for, say, Rallye wheels as I can get the RH versions all day every day at my local Crap Boys for the same price as the factory ones and I would prefer to use those, especially with the cop car hubcaps which can let water in. (I don't have any hubcaps at all for the moment, which is another good reason to use chromed ones) Having grown up in PA, I'm just a leetle bit paranoid about things corroding. Yes, I use stainless fasteners and anti-seize on nearly everything I touch. I thank myself every time I have to disassemble something for the second time :) I only wish the guy that had owned my car before me had been similarly inclined - cheap, non-heat treated bolts, hot engine, and lots of time do not make for easy disassembly. Thank goodness I managed to save a decent set of drill bits from the scrap pile at my last job :/

nate

I'm almost there, but I don't have the tools to swage the drums and hubs back together.

nate

I'd take that task to a machine shop.

Dorman catalogue on the shelf behind me.

Dorman's entire site is useless.

Its getting harder to find them... hence I'm gradually converting all my Mopars to right-hand lugs and nuts :-/ Except the '49, since it uses

However, if you want to use left-handers, Year One has them:

And I brilliantly responded:

Sometimes it doesn't pay to post until the brain wakes up....

Why? I generally do it right on the car.Hammer, punch, wrench and a few washers, a good gob of grease and a little bit of time is all it generally takes. Change the studs one at a time.

I HAVE seen "conversion studs" that thread into the hub LH, with red locktite, and take RH nuts.I've also seen the hubs drilled and studs pulled in. (In fact I've done it). It is the simplest way to get away from LH Lug Bolts on early Mopars and Hudsons. (I think they were left hand - I put studs in the Terraplane instead of bolts anyway)

My first reaction is "eww!, I don't want to depend on loctite quite that much!" My 49 is so rarely driven that I have no problem leaving it set up for bolts. If I were actually going to put any miles on it, the FIRST thing I'd do would be to lose the tapered rear axles anyway. You shouldn't have to break out a BFPuller just to change rear brake shoes...

yeah, those are problematic on Studes too. Apparently when you pump a lot of HP through them they tend to split just inside the hub...

nate

I put a '63 rear end in my '53. Almost a bolt in, except for the drive shaft.

It SHOULD be a bolt-in... they're both the same basic rear-end design which went on to become the "8-3/4" of the muscle-car era. IIRC, given the right housing width you can just swap axles, not the whole housing.

The 53 had the old sliding trunnion "U" joints and the tapered shaft axles, as well as "center plane" brakes. Car also had driveshaft parking brake. Replacement had normal integral flange axles, Bendix brakes, cross and roller type "U" joints, and provisions for parking brake on the rear. I think it took me about 3 hours to switch it over, on jack stands - then I had a driveshaft made by a local shop. Shaft was not true- shook something awfull - so I had to true it up myself - weekend before I left for the East Coast with it - so I could not take the shaft back to the "butchers" that made it for me.

Wish I still had that car - 1953 Coronet Sierra wagon - Hemi with Overdrive. Was the only one registered in Canada, and it apparently returned to California last year with a 6 figure price tag.

Just as a follow up, I never did find an inexpensive source for them, but I just won 20 of them on eBay for under $20 with shipping. So I will probably never need to look for any of them ever again :)

nate

The driveshaft P-brake and ball/trunion U-joints were used through '62.

Replacement had normal integral flange axles, Bendix

Sounds about right- not a HUGE project, but not quite bolt-in either. I didn't mean to type that it should literally be a bolt-in, I left out the word "almost," as I was meaning to agree with you entirely.

I was thinking the "Leftorium" but NAPA will work.

Bush