I want to put on new shocks that don't give a stiff ride, but also don't let
it yaw over in the corners. The springs look good, (the front have a couple
of rubber spacers in them) but I don't know what would help me decide to
replace the springs. They are not an expensive item, but to just put another
set of stock springs in might not make sense other than they would be new
Lib, if you don't already own a factory shop manual for your '63, you
need to get one.
Why would you keep rubber spacers in your springs?
The decision on replacing springs is made by checking ride height (sans
rubber spacers); that is covered in the shop manual.
Commonly-used shocks on C2's are Delco air shocks, KYB air shocks,
Koni's (adjustable), Bilstien's, and Spax. All are considered good choices.
Koni's would allow you to "choose" the level of stiffness you desire
through trial & error.
As Wayne said, you need to remove any spacers and measure the ride
height on a level surface. You may find the spacers un-needed. If the
rear sits too low, the spring leaves can be re-arched in lieu of
replaced. I've had this done on two of the mid-years I've owned and it
worked very well.
You also need to decide how you're going to use the car. If it's for
toolin' 'round and just fun driving, then I'd replace the worn parts
with direct replacements and not go fancy. If you are going to get into
more performance driving then looking into aftermarket upgrades may pay
I've autocrossed both my '67 and '72 on a few occassions. Both cars are
set up just as they were from Chevy and I thought they performed very
well. As a matter of fact, I got first place for each car...
but I'm not going to mention that my cars were the only ones in their
classes for the races! :)
Here's waving to ya - \||||
'67BB & '72BB
-- not affiliated with JLA forum in any way -- alt.autos.corvette is
original posting --
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger
Thanx for the feedback: (1) Sunday I ordered another manual to replace the
one that the owner gave to me back in 1975 when I bought the car. I
understand the concept of measuring the heighth after the drivetrain is
re-installed and working from that point. I have no idea at this moment why
the spacers are in there now, but will investigate that later. (2) How do I
"re-arch" my rear spring? I'm buying a differential re-build kit as well as
a rear suspension kit, so it will be accessible. (3) My goal is to turn it
back into the reliable, fun, week-end driver it was when I put it away in
1982. I use rental cars for long trips. I'm fairly certain my butt and back
isn't up to too many miles per day in this roadster. That's why I want to
make it a comfortable ride. I can certainly go with a set of AC gas shocks
for $100 and probably stay pretty soft. A friend of mine is a GoodYear
dealer and will buy a new set tires of soft tires from him and mount them on
my old ET-4 dished mags. It had a set of Pirelli steel-belted radials on
when I drove it. They were noisy and when changing lanes about shook your
teeth loose if you ran over the small lane bubbles.- Lib
Re-arching is done by shops that specialize in springs; check your
Haven't tried them on a Vette, but after some research I recently put a
set of Goodyear Comfortred radials on a 93 Camry and was quite satisfied
with them... nice smooth quiet ride. They are, however, only S-rated
tires, and quite expensive, even at WalMart (ordered online and shipped
free to a nearby WalMart) where I got them for about $75-$100/set less
than the local discount tire store and Tire Rack; some of that
difference was in the cost of mounting & balancing and/or shipping.
Finding near-correctly-sized tires for a midyear is getting difficult,
as fewer and fewer are available, especially in a performance rated tire.
the fiberglass spring seems to have a better ride, FWIW
Like I said earlier VB&P seem to have very good products
Since you have a 63 and more than likely want to keep it more original than
I do for my 79 your choices may be different than mine.
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