I've done many doors and windows but not a C4 rear deck seal but I'm
guessing that it is glued in place. The basics with any seal/weather
strip is to start with clean surfaces. Mark the deck lid for center
both front and rear on masking tape out of the glue area. Do the same
with the seal but use chalk to mark the rubber, masking tape will
sometimes pull the face of the seal off, not a good thing.
Start at the top and glue down the first 1/4 of the length on one
side, then do the other side. Check each time you glue it down to see
if the centerline marks still line up and you're not developing to
much slack or to little. If not correct by slowly pulling the
offending part free enough to correct the centerlines by compressing
or slightly stretching the seal.
The seal can be held in place with masking tape that you have put
another piece of tape on it glue to glue so that it has the back of
the tape on the seal so it does not stick to the seal. Pressure point
can be accomplished by cutting a piece off the old seal and putting it
under the masking tape.
Use the 3M adhesive in black or yellow for the best results.
Dad is exactly right. Ensure that the entire lip is clean, dry and free of
debris. C4's are notorious for collecting dirt and grime especially in the
corners. If you have any globs of remaining adhesive from previous
installation carefully remove with a putty knife. For the final prep use a
clean lint free cloth and some 70% isopropyl alcohol. Don't get ahead of
yourself or it will come back to haunt you at the end. If you have to
reposition lift straight up then push straight back down at the new
position. Do not attempt to pull or slide the seal. The 3M adhesive will
remain pliable long enough to ensure the correct positioning. It's not super
glue. Just ensure that the ambient air temperature is around 70F so that the
adhesive will cure properly. Using painter's tape to hold in place works
wonders without leaving residue.
Thanks to you and Dad for the good advice. I wasn't sure how sticky that
glue would be, and I can see a lot of the effort might be in getting the old
glue off so the surface is clean. Certainly getting the top and rear
centers marked on both the car and the new w/s will be key. I probably
won't mess with this until a nice weekend next spring. Thanks again.
'93 40th Anniversary coupe, 6 sp (both tops)
3M also makes the adhesive cleaner 08984 and the adhesive I use is
black number 08011 adhesive. About $25 for the pair. You may want to
mark off quarter sections of your seal. I got to thinking about the
seal you will be working with and realized when I do a door I have 4
location marks, so to speak. Both ends are witness points and I mark
the lower corners by measurement, plus some seals come with pegs that
do the same for location checks.
You will find the adhesive very stringy and you don't want to use to
much or too little. Take a clean piece of the old seal and do a wet
run to determine your bead width.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.