After running 2 sets of Goodyear EMTs on a '98 C5 and a set on a '04
C5 I had hopes of a better EMT tire on the C6. This EMT Supercar tire
grips like no other tire I've driven but then it went the way of the
first 3 sets of EMTs. Noisy and cupping on all 4 tires. Less on the
rear as they have a tendency to be trued up by applying abrasive
trimming on acceleration.
As in the past I chose not confront the nodding heads that apply the
GM/Goodyear warranty and replaced the tires with non-runflats. Being
aware that you can't reset the new sensors I have in the new tire/rim
set without an expensive transmitter I stopped by the dealer and had
them reset the sensors. They said that it wasn't a warranty issue and
charged me $36 for .50 hour of work. Takes 3 minutes if you're on
crutches. Now I'm just a bit hot and confront them about the tire
problem and that they were the ones responsible for the tires being
the crap that they are and remind them that they are the one that has
been offering free service to get customers. In other words your tire
sucks or your service is not much good. I took the tires, still
mounted, in for their inspection and after a snappy 3 week decision
they said they would replace them. They did note that the tires were
very expensive and I wonder where they have been all these years. Told
them if they think the tire are expensive they should have their car
Now I'm wondering why they would replace the tires? Does GM know that
this tire is only good for the track where you rip the front tread off
on the corners and the back off on acceleration? They were run 15,000
miles and were determined replaceable by the dealer and/or Goodyear,
not sure which. Never will get the straight scoop from either and just
wanted to make everyone aware of what can happen with the Goodyear
Note that in the past I run the non-runflats at 2/3 PSI higher to
compensate for the less rigid sidewalls, the Dunlop's I'm running at
29 cold and they go up to 34 hot and become a bit harsh, still a good
contact patch at that pressure. Smooth tire, quiet, and good grip with
a tread that allows me to run in rain and snow, if need be, on the
long trips I make.
I have no EMTs on the C5, no inflator, no jack, no tire-goo and only a
cell-phone, (rationale: I don't carry a spare alternator in the C4
either and those crap out more often than I get a flat tire on the
road). As such, I understand that I'm not a player but here's a thought:
I'm reminded back to when we used to "true" tires without load before
balancing them. Later in life, we graduated to the "tire matching" game
of playing with shoulder flex under near-static loads then balancing
them. Both of these techniques were intended (maybe successful, maybe
not) in delaying the development of adverse wear patterns, providing
ride smoothness, preventing hang-nails and forestalling old age.
The old rule was, "...once a wear pattern is established it will
continue and get worse."
I'm not sure if cupping development is caused by spot changes in
shoulder flex (a little wear in a turn, then flex changes, then the wear
is aggrevated ??? ) Possibly a periodic maintenance procedure like
'tire matching' might arrest the pattern development. I think that for
non-runflats, tire matching every 4-5K miles wouldn't pay it's way but
for EMT's it might be worth trying. Probably wouldn't sell though--the
average guy would see them grinding rubber off the tire and would have a
Hey Dad--just to cheer you up, nothing at a dealer comes in for less
than 0.5 hours any more -- Just got dinged 0.5 hours @ $106/hr. to reset
the RKE system in mama's barge when my old RKE fob went through the
washing machine. (That job was 9 minutes including pulling the car in
and out of the TECH2 service bay -- I watched from across the parking
area while the guy did the job.) Did get a "free" car wash and a nice
piece of blotter paper on the cockpit floor though.
Been all through that and you're right on, once a pattern is started
your can't shave enough off to get past the heat effect. Also went to
the trouble of "rotating" the tires by dismounting and putting them on
the other side, no help. Even went so far as to make numerous
relocations on the rim to make the tire/rim combination run as true as
possible and rejected 2 tires that had more than 1/2 ounce weight.
Put on the non-run flats and forgot about the tires and enjoyed the
excellent ride they provided. Dunlop, made by Goodyear, explain that.
That don't cheer me up at all, if your lawyer charged you for 2
letters and sent one it would be the same kind of padding used by the
dealers. I'm sure you feel secure that your lawyer doesn't do that
kind of thing with their hours, right?
I think this in the same procedure I've done on my sensors with a
$7.00 magnet from Ace Hardware.
"After Kauffman installed the new sensors, we discovered they didn't
work. So we visited John Wysocki at Maher Chevrolet, and he walked us
through the sequence on how to reprogram the sensors. John
demonstrated the process by pressing the option button on the dash
until you get the English Language message. When that message appears
hold the button. With your other hand press the reset button twice and
hold it until you get the tire training message on the dash, then
release the buttons. Next, get out of the car and hold a magnet over
the left front valve stem until the horn sounds once. Repeat the
process (LF, RF, RR, LR) for all four tires. Like magic, we now had
our tire sensors working. The reprogramming only took about five
Thanks for the thought but you need to be aware that this was on the
C6, not the C5. Actually I reset the pressure sensors many times when
I owned C5s with an old magnet from the bottom of an old transmission
pan, works great.
Even at my advanced age I'm more than willing to learn and if you can
show me where it explains how to train the sensors on the C6 with a
magnet, I'm all for it. I have the manual and I have chased this
procedure for over a year with no results other that the transmitter
sold by Bartec or your friendly Chevrolet dealer. There was one method
for the C6 where you dropped the pressures very low to get the sensors
to reset but that didn't work either.
By the way I have a set of 4 with nuts for sale from the '04 for $95
shipped. Note, these will not work on the C6 or the 1998, 99, 2000
Corvette, just the 2001, '02, '03, and the '04.
I may be all wet on this but I think this is one more TECH2 job where
the Body Control Module (BCM) has to be accessed. Haven't called
everyone in town but to date I've not found an independent shop that can
reach beyond the PCM/ECM in the C5/C6 -- no BCM capabilities yet. So
far, it's go to the dealer and pay 50-75 dollars every time you need
your nose wiped. Ths stuff is simple but way beyond what we do with our
laptops on the C3/C4. As the late C5s and C6s age we'll have a greater
need to tackle these "small" jobs.
Sounds like a good project for a Corvette Club -- buy one of the
aftermarket re-programmers and annual software updates. Probably won't
do all the of the jobs the TECH2 does but might do enough to make it a
worthwhile investment. Someone bring the programmer at each monthly
meeting etc. etc.
Anyone know of a club that's tackled this yet??
You're not all wet, it takes the transmitter or a Tech2. As for a club
doing it I think most are to picky to let someone have something that
they can't have when they want it. On the other hand those that drive
the older Corvette would see no need to invest in something that they
can't use. Ever been in a club that didn't have the cheapskate that
doesn't want to spend anything? I know a Corvette owner that still has
his '56 bought new, great guy but he would never see the need to spend
money on anything let alone something of no emanate value to him.
Funny part is he smokes, in other words burns his money in more ways
than one but he made it to 80+.
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