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Dodge Dakota air conditioning quits when it gets warm

Hello,

I have a 98 Dakota with a V6 and the air quits when it gets warm. I checked the pressure with one of those charger canisters with the gauge on it, it was a little low, but not much, it is fully charged now. The compressor cycles on and off and blows cold air until the truck gets warm then the clutch does not engage again unless the truck is shut off and allowed to cool. I temporarily bypassed the pressure cycle switch so the compressor runs constantly but the clutch still disengages, blows warm air and will not engage when the truck gets warm, (about 5-8 minutes). The radiator is full and both radiators are clean. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

George

Reply to
Creamy Goodness
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Nah, of all the people to find posting here! You don't post on the F1 ng do you? Trade it in! just kidding, you might have over charged it, not sure if it has a high pressure switch or not. It could have a bad relay or wire. I would say bring it in and have it looked at by a pro.

Reply to
John Smith

I agree it is liklley overcharge because a cheap gauge on the low pressure side of system is a poor way to charge the system because it does not give you a clue as to what is going on on the high side.

----------------- The SnoMan

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Reply to
SnoMan

"Creamy Goodness" wrote in news:J_GdnceFrYXU1CHZnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:

overcharged.

High side pressure switch is shutting off the compressor.

Reply to
R. Pierce Butler

Recver all refrigerant evacuate system properly recharge with clean refrigerant start motor put air ON and make sure your electrial fan (rediator fan) comes on and stays on, now cooling OK? from Dido

Reply to
Dido

Or, bunch of air in the system. Good idea at this point to evacuate the refrigerant charge, vacuum out the air, and charge with a known weight of new refrigerant.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

I had a similar prob, except the air cooling stopped to be replaced with warm air.... expert says that a vacuum line is blocked/broken and to check them all out, plus there are at least 2 one-way valves. If either fails it will default to warm air either at the heater or on the screen.

HTH

Molesworth

Reply to
Molesworth

George,

I have the same symptoms on a 98 Dakota V6. Curious if you had the problem before adding refrigerant. Assuming you've fixed the problem by now, what did the trick?

Rick

Creamy Goodness wrote:

Reply to
dashboard

A 1998 will have a high-pressure cutout switch, as should any factory r-134a system. It is required even on an r-12 to r-134a conversion because r-134a runs at higher pressure. The switch is likely saving your system from blowing the safety relief valve... which would be good.

Reply to
Olaf

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