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'03 2500 HVAC System (Long, but I need some help)

The trouble started about a week ago. Symptoms are as follows;

  1. Blended air seems to work fine, hot when I want it hot and cooler when I move the levers to cooler. (Dual Climate controls)
  2. Floor vent seems to work fine, but I thought it used to blow more.
  3. Dash vents barely blow at all.
  4. Defrost flows nothing.
  5. No noticible differance when hitting the recirc button.

All of those above are with the changing of the switch to the correct position and waiting a bit for the doors to operate.

So, thinks I, lets check the Defrost Door Actuator and the Panel Actuator. I pull the actuators and measure 150 ohms across the terminals. I manually move the doors to see they are not stuck. I reconnect the wires but don't mount the actuators. I pull the plug out of the back of the panel switch and plug it back in. I reconnect the battery and put the key on. I move the switch and watch the output shaft driver of the actuators. They don't move for several second (10-15) then I tried to move one and they both begin moving on their own. Seems to have been stuck or maybe I didn't wait long enough?

I replace the actuators on their respective shafts and try the tests as above. I get the same results (low or no flow of air). You know, I don't hear the recirc door slamming into position anymore. I can see through the Recirculation Door Assembly and I can watch the RDA Actuator turn something inside but my eyes are not as good as they used to be so it takes a min of back and forth before I realize there is a door missing and something that looks like a broken plastic shaft.

I fish around with my fingers (a talent refined elsewhere) and feel the door laying flat blocking the downward flow of air. I moved it up to where I can see where it broke off the shaft. Crap!

That grill does not seem removable to allow access to the door. The RDA comes apart with 4(?) screws, two of which I'm thinking are situated so you must tear the whole truck apart to get to them.

OK, all that for this. Is there any way to pull that busted door out and place in a new one without pulling the whole dash out (which includes pulling the steering column)?

FMB (Only one B in FMB)

Reply to
FMB
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I don't know how different the dash is on a 2500, but on my '03 1500 the pivot shaft on the door broke, and they had to remove the dash, evac the A/C and coolant, and remove the HVAC box to repair it. I'm glad it was under warranty. HD

Reply to
HoDad

Short answer? No. You need to disassemble the HVAC assembly to replace the door(s), which means you need to remove it from the vehicle, which means you need to remove the dash (and recover the A/C, and drain the coolant).

Sorry... one of the reasons I sprung for the extended service contract, having twice shelled out for HVAC-related repairs on two of my other vehicles (leaking evap. in one truck, leaking heater core in another).

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

Tom, thanks for the advice. You are one of the respected few here that give good advice. I took some of it.

I layed the steering wheel to the front seat, took off the glove box, the front panel that goes from the glove box to the center panel, the floor console, etc... took the bolts off both ends of the dash and the center to the floor bolts, and the screws and bolts by the windshield, A pillar covers and ends and various stuff.

This allowed me the room to pull the electronic box that sits over the HVAC unit just to the left of the recirc door. Allowing me the room means it was loose enough for me to push up the right side of the dash about 2 inches without removing the dash in its entirity. With that electronic box gone, I had room to take off the recirc actuator. I cut the gril off the air intake (for recirc) and reached in and took out the busted door and the piece that busted off.

I worked out that white nylon bushing thingy (technical term I can't replicate from the manual) and put the new door in (greased). Replaced the thingy and actuator. Tested system. All passed.

Put everything back together. What a pain in the ass. All that for a $30 door ($40 retail). Oh, and I didn't replace the grill I cut out. I figured it was there to keep small cats or dogs out of the HVAC system when on Recirc. Since I keep out the small animals, I thought I might do without the replacement. If someone gives me a good reason to glue it back in, I'll consider it.

This was a major job for me and for major jobs I usually build up some tools. Only thing I needed extra for this was the trim stick. I had a cheap one a long time ago, but I splurged and spent almost $6 on a new one that has a screwdriver type handle. Worked fine.

FMB (Only one B in FMB)

Reply to
FMB

Good to hear... I haven't had to remove the dah in a 3rd Gen yet... just the basic bezel removals to run wiring, etc. I have had to do the job on both a '99 and '95 model - not fun. The 3rd gens seem to be a lot easier (not an easy job, just easier than previous years). You were pretty much one or two steps from removing the entire IP... a few electrical disconnects (the big bulkhead and the ones around it), and the dash would have come out of the truck.

Reply to
Tom Lawrence

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