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97 Ram 3500 w/Cummins and 5 speed manual.

My first diesel !!! and I love it.

Thanks to those in the group for enlightening me on the what's and what-ever's and helping me look for the right vehicle.

Of course it came with a few flaws....(cruise not working - broken vac. line, LH & RH electric mirrors WAY too sloppy, crack in windshield washer reservoir, etc. but, those are taken care of now. It's time to take on the bigger chores. It seems this truck has been struck by the infamous "fuel level sensor" problem. I took a look under the truck this morning and I can see a problem dropping the tank. There seems to be tighter than normal spaces to allow the tank to drop without any problems. I have read in other areas that most people raise the bed to access the tank. As I look at the problem now, it seems if I remove the 4 bolts to the front and just leave the 2 rear bolts loose, I should be able to put my hydraulic jack toward the front of the bed and lift it until I can get enough space to place some timber between the bed and frame rails to support the bed while I work on the tank.

How much space between the bed and the tank will I need to remove the component(s) ? Is there a repair for the "sunk 'in/saturated float" or will I have to opt for a complete new sensor. I've been told that the plastic parts either wear or become out of alignment as to work properly. One person had a great idea in replacing the existing pivot pin with either a piece of aluminum or brass (welding) rod.

I was going to tackle the job starting this morning but decided to wait until Monday when most Dodge/Mopar shops will be open. I hate it when I have to wait for a dealership to open.... and I don't know if the local AutoZones, Krager, etc. will carry such parts.

I guess what I'm asking for is someone with experience (having done this before) for advice. If I have to rig a toilet float.... I'll do that too.... WAIT A MINUTE.... I was trying to be funny, but that may be a solution....

The project starts Monday morning.... any help before then would be appreciated...

G. Hedlund Zip: 92404 Researching: Hedlund, Anderson, Nyrén, Jansson, Heggi, Laszlo, Tako, Taney, Luchinger, Toensing, and Haufle.

Reply to
Hobart Duncan
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I've read about lifting the bed but I dropped the tank. Which ever way you do it you might want to pick up the large "O" ring at the dealer along with the module. Also some fuel line to replace the line from the tank to the hard line at the frame. It always seems to leak a week after you have finished the job.

Roy

Reply to
Roy

Tnx Roy, I've already planned on replacing any lines that connect to the hard lines. When you say "the module", are you talking about the WHOLE assembly? Maybe I've been reading too many X-posts about the subject and confused myself.... isn't there two parts to the assembly and the only part that would need a complete replacement is the float and rheostat module? I understand it connects to the main assembly with three machine style screws (into plastic).

From the pic in the Haynes repair manual, the units look identical with the exception of the fuel pump for the gassers. The sending units appear to be replaceable in both cases.... am I correct?

Dropping the tank (according to Haynes), I have to remove the inner wheel on this dually.... It seems more work than lifting the bed.... I'll be on my back again today (before the temps are over 95) and recheck everything. I've removed the "GooseNeck" hitch that came with the truck.... I'll be fitting a

5th wheel hitch on the rails that the GooseNeck was bolted to. I'm also flirting with the idea of cutting an inspection plate in the bed to access the fuel sensor module. Then when everything is fitting... I'll have the bed sprayed with a liner.

Have you or anyone else played with the idea of cutting out a section of the bed over the tank just large enough to yank that module out in the event it happens again? I'll tell ya, I'm giving it some deep thought right now.

again, Tnx.... Gerry of San Bernardino, CA.

Reply to
Hobart Duncan

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