there are some dodge diesel trucks with a million miles on them my brother
seen one with 750 thousand miles the guy said that he never hade any major
engine work done on it except a turbo/ water pump/ starter/ batteries/
Thanks but wsa hoping to talk to someone on here about their experience
with it. I've lost power somewhere. Was curious if they had replaced the
injectors at any point or the lift pump. I know on certain years, the
lift pumps are a serious problem. I think on the 12v's they are pretty
reliable and durable.
I've got about 250k on mine. Loss of power for me meant dirty
fuel/filter first & then look at transfer pump. I've replaced tranfer
pump twice - I get about 100k out of one & then replace it as a
I replace the filter yearly. I may drive 8k a year. I'm a bike person.
4 wheels are good for hauling or towing.
I can get the lift pump, if that's what you're talking about on eBay for
$130 I think. I bought a nice water pump on there but haven't had a need
to replace it yet.
Curious. Is there a need to drop the tank and clean a sock filter, if it
has one? I should have done that when I dropped the tank 5 years ago to
repair a brake line. Wasn't sure how to get the cap off. It didn't look
like it screwed and my factory service manual didn't say anything, that
Was the transfer pump a bear to replace? I'd think getting to it is the
hard part, unless you can get it on a lift and try from underneath.
It's a locking ring on the fuel module. You're supposed to use a special
spanner wrench, but you can just use a screwdriver and a mallet and tap the
ring counter-clockwise to remove it. Make a reference mark on both the ring
and the tank, so you can get it back to the same position (which will result
in approximately the same torque).
Good point. That whole setup is needlessly complex to me (a compromise to
use the same tank in both gas and diesel applications)... if I were going
to have my tank out, I'd get rid of that whole thing (probably cut a piece
of diesel-compatible plastic to sit under the ring as a filler plate), and
just replace it with a couple of bulkhead fittings and a dip tube (similar
to what DPP sells with their FASS kits). I'd then cut the hard lines back a
bit, and graft on some flexible fuel lines - making it much easier later on
to lower the tank, disconnect the supply and return lines at the bulkheads
(I'd use AN fittings - SO much more reliable than those stock POS push-lock
connections), and out with the tank.
I'd not advocating that Midlant do this... but I may have just talked myself
into it :)
LOL Nooooooo! I don't want to modify anything else at the moment. Bikes
are finally pretty much where I want them, compared to all the others
ones in my past. Need to update or repair a boat trailer that has the
keel rollers welded to the trailer and they're rotted, boat needs work,
and still haven't gotten to the front brakes yet.
This just after spending two weeks at my parents doing all their home
repair and maintenance.
Noooooooo! No modifying anything. Noooooooo
Remember the Pink Panther with Peter Sellers? At the end of one of the
movies, whit his nose blown off, he was in a I love me jacket writing
with a crayon between his toes on the padded walls.
That's about where I'm at with maintenance of any sort.
<blurrrrrrrrrbbbbbbbbbbb><finger bouncing lips>
ps is there a sock filter on the lines in the tank or a screen that
would need cleaning?
When I dropped my tank last time, I didn't monkey with anything, but
shortly thereafter my fuel gauge became erratic. Either I've got a loose
connection or the sending unit went bad.
You might have talked me into it too. What about the fuel level sending
unit? The one on my '99 is attached on the module. The fuel pickup portion
of the bottom of the module is also spring loaded to compensate for the tank
flexing. Will a dip-tube be any problem?
My fuel module:
HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) plastic is diesel compatable. Stop at an
automatic car wash and ask the attendant if they have any plastic soap
barrels they want to get rid of. Most of them use 15, 30, and 55 gallon
barrels and are happy to give away the empty ones. They are very easy to cut
with a sabre saw. The flat bottom of these barrels would be just about the
right thickness to make a filler plate. HDPE is also fairly easy to form if
you get it to the right temperature. An electric skillet works great to warm
up small pieces to forming temperature. In a pinch your wife's laundry iron
might work too. Soldering irons work well for cleaning up rough cut edges
and making small or irregular shaped holes.
See: http://www.yemmhart.com/materials/origins/fabrication.htm for more HDPE
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