heater control valve

Yours too? I got a '75 F350 with a glove box "opening", rats chewed the cardboard box behind the door so it's just a hole now.

Hmmm.. at wide-open throttle there ain't a lotta vacuum there, just barely below ambient atmospheric pressure. So what if you had a supercharger on it, would a vacuum operated valve even work at all? I don't think so.

Yeah, did you see this article? Not the Same Guy You Remember from Church

An article from a couple days ago had a little more to say, like his height likely around the typical 5'1" as the Romans couldn't pick him out from the rest of the crowd. I think he looks like a cave man. And that's okay, isn't it?

Oh come on, you're using Thunderbird and your sig delimiter is f***ed up dash-dash-dash. You did that on purpose.

Well, considering Ferds are made of rat nesting material . . . . . .

My glove box will tilt out far enough to view the area behind it by depressing a couple catch tabs ... sorry yours wasn't as well designed.

BTW, you're response isn't helping a bit, just wasting bandwidth.

Who the heck said anything about a supercharger?????? It's a 2 BBL 318 fer cryin' out loud!!!!

But then, I had a 79 D150 (318, auto, 3.55) that embarrassed T-B injected GM 350's on kick down start drags.

It's a MOPAR, the most banned or factored out of competition manufacturer ever, not a limp wrist, cowboy pimpmobile Ferd, which was one of the manufacturers that couldn't handle MOPAR engineering (the other was Goofy Mistakes).

You have a right to your opinion, right or wrong, me ... I'll just wait till He greets me, either when I die or am called up in the Rapture, to see what He looks like.

Boo-Hoo ... I use T-bird and you don't like it ... get over yourself.

Budd

I'm using it. Thunderbird can't trim sigs following dopey "---" sig delimiters, nor does it produce dopey "---" sig delimiters.

I type my name in ... it's not a sig line and I don't have one, ding dong.

I run Avast freeware and it writes what it's programmed to write by the programmer ... which isn't me.

If you don't like it, complain to Avast, not me.

Now, do you have any usable info on the problem mentioned in my OP or are you just being a troll?

Budd

LOL your computer is an advertisement machine and you aren't sharp enough to regain control over it.

Install a cable operated control valve DUH!*/ /*

---- Linux - no virus check necessary Not a sig, just meant to look like one

And maybe I'm not the geek that you are and, unlike you, don't I give a darn if it advertises freeware that works extremely well and has been the best A/V I've ever had.

And I'm a senior citizen on a fixed income that can't afford the expensive software.

And if the valve's supposed to be a vacuum operated one, I could end up with a pretty noticeable vacuum leak which is going to mess up idle rpms, idle mixtures, distributor advance vacuum signal and follow your example and just sucks.

Again, you're "advice" isn't helping with the original question.

Ah, proof you're just another snobby, self-centered geek.

BTW, Unix and it's derivatives like Linux are for those who want to learn a wholly different way of computing that's not really any better than Win XP or 7, runs Win software poorly at best, and has less software available, but just want their ego stoked because they think they are superior to everyone else.

IOW, you're a computerized bigot.

Merry Christmas!

Budd

Then you already have the leak anyway, dope. Put a cork in it, and install a cable-operated valve from your Ford dealer.

Ah, proof you're just another snobby, self-centered geek

And you are an idiot.

Budd

Quite.

Listen, you can't find a valve on the hoses... speculation that the previous farmer has removed it from the system. The heat is always on and the knob won't turn it off.

So cut the heater hose anywhere and install a NEW cable-operated valve. Where's the old valve... ? Forget about it!

Glad you can admit that about yourself ... it means there's a glimmer of hope for you but grab it quick before the batteries die.

Hmm ... medically not possible ... can't catch it from pixels on a screen and you're the only one I've had contact with lately ... if you want to call your drivel "contact" ... evidently you had or forced a 3 year old tell you what to write ... child abuse?

Tried that on an 88 XJ and the only cable to operate it I could find was a standard hand choke cable which pulls real well like a ford on a Dodge powered rollback but pushes like the strings holding the ford together.

You had to pop the hood to turn the heat off ... ever held up an XJ hood with one hand while trying to move a valve lever near the firewall that has extra resistance to movement from the cable????

Didn't think so.

And maybe, just maybe I don't want to baling wire/jury rig it together which is standard for fords.

Some people may not run their PC's to suit you but they like to repair their vehicles correctly.

Budd