Problems with the heater control valve on my '55

Hello Gentlemen, The heater control valve on my '55 is not working properly. I can feel the heat from the radiator under the passenger seat even when the valve
is suppose to be closed. I can get it rebuilt by SI and I guess I will have to do that. My question, the thermostat thingy that sticks out of the heater control valve - where is that suppose to be mounted to? Mine is just bouncing around untethered. Thanks in advance for any/all advice. Regards, Jim Pascale
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The thingy.....should be toward the middle of the dash (aimed) and into compartent. The on;y way to get good heat is to open driver's vent about 1/2 inch.
BG

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This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------080407070007030702090109 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Jim, Bill is correct, it should be coiled loosely and the end should be pointing towards the middle of the car. It should NOT touch anything, or be near the heater hoses (for those applications where the whole valve is inside the car). I think your problem is most likely the heat duct hose, or seals on the vent-door "clamshells" letting air flow through the heater core.
Even if the Heat Control Valve is in perfect working condition- the heater core will eventually get hot-it may take awhile, but it will. If the valve is leaking at all, the heater core will get hot pretty quickly. Studebaker's air-flow and heat system is pretty ingeneous.. There are (4) major components that work together to give a pretty infinate number of adjustments in heating and cool ventilation.
-The Heater Control Valve (HGV)- you can open this valve incrementally to adjust engine coolant flow -The Outer Vent Doors(OVD-boths sides)- 2-positions open/closed... they do not typically stay in partial open/close positions if the hinge is free and the spring is working correctly. If the hinge is rusty, or the springs weak/missing- they will sometimes hold their positions. -The Inner Vent Door (IVD-passenger side only)- Can be opened incrementally -The Blower Fan Motor (Fan) + Hi/Low switch.
Settings:
* Cooling/Ventilation- Open OVD + IVD to allow fresh air into car (HCV-off , F-off) * No Heat: close HCV, close OVD, close IVD, Fan- off * Low Heat: close HCV , close OVD, open IVD (pass side), Fan on low (after car is warm) * Med Low Heat: open HCV , close OVD, open IVD, Fan on low (quicker heat as this recirculates interior air) * Med Heat: open HCV, open OVD, close IVD, Fan on Low (once warm, the moving car and fan provide medium air flow through heater core) * Medium High Heat: open HCV, open OVD, close IVD, Fan on high, * High Heat : open HCV, close OVD, open IVD, Fan on high (recirculates interior air- faster heating when very cold outside)
*** Any rust holes or leakage in the vent door "clamshells"or seals, or in the 4" Duct hose from the fan motor to the underseat heater box- will allow air to flow through the heater core at all times. This will create heat in the summer- even if the HCV is closed.
Ray
Bill Glass wrote:

</pre> <blockquote type="cite"> <pre wrap="">Hello Gentlemen, The heater control valve on my '55 is not working properly. I can feel </pre> </blockquote> <pre wrap=""><!---->
</pre> </blockquote> </body> </html>
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What kind of code is that? I am going to make up a little sign and place it on dash. Just like a check list in an aircraft Love it.
Merry Christmas
Settings:
a.. Cooling/Ventilation- Open OVD + IVD to allow fresh air into car (HCV-off , F-off)
b.. No Heat: close HCV, close OVD, close IVD, Fan- off c.. Low Heat: close HCV , close OVD, open IVD (pass side), Fan on low (after car is warm)
d.. Med Low Heat: open HCV , close OVD, open IVD, Fan on low (quicker heat as this recirculates interior air)
e.. Med Heat: open HCV, open OVD, close IVD, Fan on Low (once warm, the moving car and fan provide medium air flow through heater core) f.. Medium High Heat: open HCV, open OVD, close IVD, Fan on high,
g.. High Heat : open HCV, close OVD, open IVD, Fan on high (recirculates interior air- faster heating when very cold outside)
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Hello Ray, Bill & All,

towards the middle of the car. It should NOT touch anything, or be near the heater hoses (for those applications where the whole valve is inside the car). ***Ahhh, coiled. Mine is just pointing straight & bouncing around like it's on viagra! <lol> I'll coil her up so she doesn't make a racket.

vent-door "clamshells" letting air flow through the heater core.Even if the Heat Control Valve is in perfect working condition- the heater core will eventually get hot-it may take awhile, but it will. If the valve is leaking at all, the heater core will get hot pretty quickly. ***Hmmm, so maybe my heater control valve is working fine. My problem is hot radiant heat coming off the heater core under the passenger side seat. I can't seem to shut it off although the wire pull seems to work just fine, opening & closing the valve at least externally from what I can see. What could be wrong with the heat duct hose that could create this problem? Thanks again for all your help gentlemen. Jim
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I had this problem in my '53. Don't have the thermo valve on mine, just a on/off one inside the engine compartment that can be controlled with the pull handle (its a "modified" car). I ran the lawnmower type cable through the firewall instead of over to the place where the original valve was behind the glove box. I found that the valve I used has a small slit and it "leaks" even when in the off position so I get a hot core. Makes for a miserable trip on 90 deg days. I added a small brass plumbing valve with a 1/2 turn knob inline the hoses to the core that I can turn things truely off or on. I leave it off in the summer and turn on in the cooler weather and then can fine tune with the control lever under the dash. The 2 valves are basically in series.
Jeff in ND
jimpascale wrote:

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Hello Jeff,

the core that I can turn things truely off or on. I leave it off in the summer and turn on in the cooler weather ***If I can't remedy the problem any other way that's my plan as well. I had the same problem, & solution, with my formerly owned 39CE. Jim
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If it really bothers you, you can bypass the heater entirely. Takes about 10 min and you get a bit wet.
Bill

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jimpascale wrote:

I guess I'm assuming this is a C/K. The Blower Motor is mounted up under the passenger front wheelwell. The duct hose runs just behind wheel and under the floorboard. That duct hose will get pinholes, cracks, and just general deterioration. Any air that can get into the hose from driving- will push through the heater core- and you'll get heat. If everything is tight with no air-flow, the problem isn't nearly as bad. I have driven our Hawks in sweltering heat here in NC- and as long as the ductwork is sealed- I've felt no hot air from the heater core. Even though it is warm to the touch.

NP... Ray
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