Problems with the heater control valve on my '55

The thingy.....should be toward the middle of the dash (aimed) and into compartent. The on;y way to get good heat is to open driver's vent about 1/2 inch.

BG

Hello Gentlemen, The heater control valve on my '55 is not working properly. I can feel

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What kind of code is that? I am going to make up a little sign and place it on dash. Just like a check list in an aircraft Love it.

Merry Christmas

Settings:

a.. Cooling/Ventilation- Open OVD + IVD to allow fresh air into car (HCV-off , F-off)

b.. No Heat: close HCV, close OVD, close IVD, Fan- off c.. Low Heat: close HCV , close OVD, open IVD (pass side), Fan on low (after car is warm)

d.. Med Low Heat: open HCV , close OVD, open IVD, Fan on low (quicker heat as this recirculates interior air)

e.. Med Heat: open HCV, open OVD, close IVD, Fan on Low (once warm, the moving car and fan provide medium air flow through heater core) f.. Medium High Heat: open HCV, open OVD, close IVD, Fan on high,

g.. High Heat : open HCV, close OVD, open IVD, Fan on high (recirculates interior air- faster heating when very cold outside)

Hello Ray, Bill & All,

towards the middle of the car. It should NOT touch anything, or be near the heater hoses (for those applications where the whole valve is inside the car).

vent-door "clamshells" letting air flow through the heater core.Even if the Heat Control Valve is in perfect working condition- the heater core will eventually get hot-it may take awhile, but it will. If the valve is leaking at all, the heater core will get hot pretty quickly.

I had this problem in my '53. Don't have the thermo valve on mine, just a on/off one inside the engine compartment that can be controlled with the pull handle (its a "modified" car). I ran the lawnmower type cable through the firewall instead of over to the place where the original valve was behind the glove box. I found that the valve I used has a small slit and it "leaks" even when in the off position so I get a hot core. Makes for a miserable trip on 90 deg days. I added a small brass plumbing valve with a 1/2 turn knob inline the hoses to the core that I can turn things truely off or on. I leave it off in the summer and turn on in the cooler weather and then can fine tune with the control lever under the dash. The 2 valves are basically in series.

Jeff in ND

jimpascale wrote:

Hello Jeff,

the core that I can turn things truely off or on. I leave it off in the summer and turn on in the cooler weather

I guess I'm assuming this is a C/K. The Blower Motor is mounted up under the passenger front wheelwell. The duct hose runs just behind wheel and under the floorboard. That duct hose will get pinholes, cracks, and just general deterioration. Any air that can get into the hose from driving- will push through the heater core- and you'll get heat. If everything is tight with no air-flow, the problem isn't nearly as bad. I have driven our Hawks in sweltering heat here in NC- and as long as the ductwork is sealed- I've felt no hot air from the heater core. Even though it is warm to the touch.

NP... Ray

If it really bothers you, you can bypass the heater entirely. Takes about 10 min and you get a bit wet.

Bill