On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 13:07:04 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Electrician)
I don't think you will find any Dakota that is rated to 6K with a
3.21:1 ratio, regardless of engine, transmission, or cab style for
which you have not stated your intentions.
I wonder if that list is wrong. The user manual for my 2000 RAM 2500 CTD
lists upper towing limits list about 15k for automatic and 19k for manual.
This list shows the 2006 line for only about 13k for both.
If that is correct I think I will try to keep my 2000 truck lomg as
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
If you want a point of reference you can go to the trailerlife.com
home site and look up the 2000, see if it matches your user manual.
Seems backwards though, most of the towing capacities derate the
You also should consider the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight rating,
which is the weight of the vehicle, load and tow. Usually less than
the tow ratings when you deduct the other stuff.
My Dakota is rated at 4800 for towing, but if I look at it from the
GCVWR standpoint, drops to about 3900.
In the case of the Dakota, I think that is because the largest
engine is available only with automatic transmission. In most
of the larger trucks, an NV4500 or Getrag manual is available
that will take pretty much whatever you throw at it.
The list is right on.... you have a 3/4 ton RAM, dude... lol
My 01 Dakota with 4.7/auto/3:55 and 2wd is rated as max row 5100#
Change to a 4:10 rear end and it's max goes up to 6,405# but that just means
that it will get that much weight moving from a standstill..
It doesn't mean that it can STOP it or that the wheelbase is going to get longer
or the suspension beefier to CONROL it.. YMWV
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 10:06:18 -0500, Frank Boettcher
Yes and quite honestly, a Dakota will have a bit of a hard time with a
6k trailer and a 3.91 at times and be a lost cause with a 3.12. Take
factory tow rating with a grain of salt here. Figure on about 60 to
maybe 70% or the "rating" in the real world.
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:55:57 GMT, email@example.com (Electrician)
You have it backwards, it is a lot higher than you can comfortably tow
with those vehicles. The only ones accurately rated and with some
reserve are the diesels and Big Block powered P/U's (Like old Dodge
V10's, old Ford 460's and GM 454's and 8.1's and Ford V10's somewhat
I have both a Dakota and an f150. I also have a 6k travel trailer. I would
not attempt to pull it with the dakota. as a matter of fact, I wanted to
move my trailer about 20 yards to my front yard. My f150 was in the shop. I
hooked up the TT to the dakota and I thought I broke the springs, it went
so far down.
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:39:30 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Electrician) wrote:
That's scarey... my 99 ram with 5.9 gas, auto and 3:55 gears is only rated at
We haul a 29' Travel Trailer that weighs a little over 6k loaded and there's no
way I'd want to try that weight with a Dakota... talk about the tail wagging the
On Thu, 20 Jul 2006 14:40:05 -0500, Frank Boettcher
A sway bar works miracles. I know THAT from experience. A equalizer
hitch also makes a HUGE difference, particularly on a heavy trailer
and a light tow vehicle.
When I towed the 17 foot Bonair with the Aerostar, if I had 150-200
lbs on the hitch it towned nicely - very little sway - particularly
with TRAILER tires, rather than car tires. When I put a bike rack on
the back, it was all over the road with 150 tongue weight - not much
better at 200. The sway bar tamed it right down, even at 150 - and at
150 tye hitch hight was still very good - so I did not use a
distribution hitch. The guy I bought it from used a distribution
hitch on his AstroVan. He said without it, the lightweight trailer
pushed the van around, or the bumper dragged. With the distribution
hitch he could level it out, and have enough hitch weight to tame it
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Yeah, we have the Drawtite WD hitch... it was what the dealer that we bought the
trailer from stocked and we wanted to keep the costs down..
It was intimidating at first, especially when they warned us about "severe
injury probable" if you didn't follow all the steps involved in
hitching/unhitching the spring bars... turned out to be a piece of cake after a
I remember when the finished putting the receiver on the Ram and hooked up the
trailer... the back end of the Ram went down over a FOOT and my wife & I
freaked! We thought we were going to have to put air bags or something on it..
The guy looked at our faces and laughed.. said he got that expression every time
and not to worry.. he jacked the trailer to level, cranked on the WD bars and
let it down and the truck was level.. amazing...
We've done several long trips and been through areas with cross winds and such,
never a sway... love it!
They told us to start at "three links hanging"... that was how many links were
free at the end of each chain on the bars... leveled it right out and handled
As we used the trailer more and added more "gotta bring that" stuff, we noticed
that the truck bumper was down a little in the back and tried 4 links free...
That said, I have to do a "if I'd known then" thing:
We had assumed that 5th wheels were for huge trailers and 3/4 or 1 ton trucks...
If we had known that there were fivers that were even shorter than our travel
trailer and being pulled all the time with 1/2 ton trucks, we would have gone
that route... YMWV
Thanks, I need to set up my Dakota to tow just under 4K. Will probably
go with a WD hitch. Probably marginal, however, if I don't think it
will stand up to it I'll trade the truck up to something with more
Go with the 3.92. It will have almost no mileage impact around town. The
transmission will upshift to the next to keep the rpm's in right range. You
notice some decrease on the highway, though. But it's not enough to matter a
lot. You'll really need that 3.92 gear when you tow.
The Ram is too big to fit in my garage, I'd have just a couple of inches to
spare. I have a 97 club cab Dakota that fits quite nicely so I'd like to stay
with a Dakota. I've used my current Dakota to haul loads in the 5K range many
times but never distances over 75 miles or so. It is a 5.2L, 5 speed automatic
with the 3.21 rear and doesn't seem to have any great difficulty with 5K,
other than getting about 10 miles to the gallon. So I'm thinking a new quad
cab 4.7L Dakota will fit the bill quite nicely.
On Wed, 19 Jul 2006 22:52:31 GMT, email@example.com (Electrician)
If you had a 3.91 behind current truck you would have a different view
and a Dakota QC with a 4.7 and a 3.21 with a 5 k trailer would be a
slug and not make a good towing experiance and likely get even worse
MPG that you get now. (deeper gears improve towing MPG)
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