This may be a silly question, but do you get air out the vents on heat
settings with the A/C turned off? When my blender door broke, I could hear
the servo motor run, but it didn't change the door setting. You should be
able to hear the blower running especially on high, even if the vents don't
work. If no motor noise, I would suspect a fuse or the motor itself.
With AC off and heat on I get nothing through wents. I'm about to pull
blower motor and test with 12VDC power supply. If it is bad would local
auto parts store carry it? Or is it a dealer only part.
I honestly don't know, but would guess that it is a dealer or junkyard item.
I checked my FSM and it lists the following causes as reasons the blower
motor may be inoperative.
Faulty blower motor circuit wiring or wiring harness connectors
Faulty blower motor resistor
Faulty blower motor relay
Faulty blower motor switch
Faulty A/C heater mode control switch
Faulty blower motor
Faulty blower motor switch
At least checking the blower motor is fairly simple. Just unplug it and
hook it up to your power source. If you are going to remove it, the manual
says to disconnect the negative battery cable two minutes prior to any
electrical work, may be a good idea to do this before testing the motor too.
If your fan runs when you apply power to the leads, then you have some
troubleshooting to do.
Local auto parts stores have the blower for my truck, don't know about the
newer ones.Don't get it from a junkyard, you could end up doing this again
next month.I believe the most expensive I've seen the motor is around $50.
Mine was less but my truck is old.......
I disconnected the blower and connected it to 12V power source and it
works like a charm. Connecting my voltmeter to wiring harness that
plugs into the blower does not give me 12VDC. I get nothing at all. I
then put the voltmeter directly into the wire piercing the insulation
and I still got nothing. I have checked every fuse/relay under the hood
and they all check out good. What else is there to check? A/C control
cluster? If so how do i remove it from dash to do so.
Okay...you've got a dark green wire on that connector, which should have
+12V on it when the ignition switch is on. Test this with your voltmeter
connected to a known good ground. If you have no voltage here, it may be a
problem with the ignition switch. Test the same dark green wire at the
ignition switch for voltage.
If you do have voltage on the dark green wire, next see if you have ground
on the black/tan wire, with the blower motor switch on high (check for
continuity between the pin and a known good ground). If you don't get
anything there, pull the center console off (remove the screw under the
trash bag hook next to the glovebox), and check out the continuity between
the pin on the blower motor connector, and the other end of the wire at the
connector on the HVAC control panel.
The common side of the blower motor switch is the black/dark blue wire on
pin #5 of the 10-pin connector. Make sure you have good continuity to
ground at that end.
See if any of that reveals the problem.
Tested the above and no voltage whatsoever. Checked under steering
wheel by connecting voltmeter to green wire and bare metal of truck and
no voltage. My knees are starting to buckle as I fear what lies ahead.
Sigh... I'll be a man and handle it :) What next Tom?
Really stupid question.... the ignition was switched ON, right? When it's
on, you should also have voltage on the dark blue wire, and the solid orange
wire (to name a few)... just to make sure your voltmeter is working and
your ground is good...
Now, assuming that - the feed wire for the blower motor feed is the
pink/black wire (pin #1 on the connector). That should be hot all the time.
If it isn't, check fuse #4 (a 40 amp fuse) in the integrated power module.
If the pink/black wire is hot, but the dark green isn't, with the ignition
on, then you've got a bum ignition switch (but double-double check the
connectors before ripping the switch out of the column). If the pink/black
wire is dead, but the fuse checks good (and you do measure +12V on one of
the fuse connectors), you've got a broken wire between the IPM and the
With the ignition on I do not get voltage on dark green wire but I do
get voltage on the dark blue and solid orange wire. I also get voltage
on the pink/black wire. After this test would you agree that I need to
replace the ignition switch? Is this a small job? How much is the part?
I'm going to definetly study my FSM before doing anything removing a
single screw. Do you have any pointers or suggestions?
Yep - sure sounds that way... assuming you removed the connector and
checked for things like a burnt pin, melted plastic, etc.
It's not too tough - especially if you have the FSM (the real FSM - not a
Haynes or Chilton's book). You'll need some Torx screwdrivers (manual
doesn't say anything about any security Torx screws, but it wouldn't
surprise me to find at least one. A set of security Torx bits can be had at
any auto parts place for pretty cheap.... sorta defeats the whole concept
of security screws in the first place, but oh well)
As for price, less than $20 - even at the dealer parts counter (make sure
you just buy the switch - you don't need a new lock cylinder, which would
put the cost closer to $100)
Nah, like I said, it's a pretty straight-forward job. Just make sure to
disconnect the battery first, and follow the FSM instructions.
I got a blower motor for my Chevy at the auto parts. Worth a call.
actually, I need another blower for my Dodge Van, so that's a real
issue. I need to make another call. The Chevy blower was about $20 at
I do believe that there is a resistor pack in the air flow. What that
means, i fyou run straight 12 volts the motor burns out prematurely.
This, from experience.
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.