Put a pipewrench on the shank???? <BG> There is a 'special' tool to turn
the adjusters. Think of a piece of pipe with the appropriate (sp) sized nut
welded on one end to fit the adjuster and a nut on the other end to fit
whatever socket you desire. You insert the tool in place of the axle shaft
to turn the adjuster. Or just pry the hell out of the adjuster with a
Oh, but there is.... gear lube in your face/mouth/nostrils. Back when I
was workspace-challenged, and did my vehicle work on a creeper in my
driveway, I was attempting to remove a rear diff cover. I had most of the
bolts removed, and a gasket scraper tapped underneath the cover. As I
pulled on the gasket scraper (much the same way you would pull on a
screwdriver to tighten an axle adjuster nut), I pulled myself on the creeper
towards the axle, just as the silicone decided to "let go", and popped the
Not fun.... not fun at all. I smelled gear oil for the next several days.
Having rebuilt a few 9.25 Mopar rears, including machining custom axle
shafts, installing limited slips, and such, the screwdriver method works
fine. As a matter of fact thats why the factory places the adjustment holes
in the side adjusters. It's not practical to buy every tool the service
manual recommends. The only tools you really need are a dial indicator and a
good mechanical sense.
Geez, he didn't tell me he had pictures. Seems he lost the lock on the left
adjuster. It would seem that this adjuster worked its way loose and the
carrier is floating to the left under load. It doesn't look like he has too
much wear on the ring gear. At this point I would tighten *ONLY* the left
adjuster to get proper load on the bearings. He shouldn't need to set the
rear up if he didn't screw with the right adjuster. The noise will
disappear once the bearings are properly loaded. If he still has noise
after this it would be best to go down to the bone yard and get a low
mileage rear for about $75.
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