problems 5.7 iroc - no spark no start after warming up

have you done basic checks? check cap for cracks. as it heats it expands? are u sure its no spark? are there any wires near the exhaust?

Doesn't start as in crank but no fire, or doesn't start as in no crank?

If it's the latter, five bucks says it's heat soak. Get a starter heat shield and look into mounting a remote solenoid.

Milhouse

I also replaced the cap and rotor, sorry I should have mentioned that i forgot. No wires by the exhaust. Just plain wearin me down All aboard the Yankee express, next stop October.....

everything is fully functional and the car cranks like a champ just doesn't turn over. I am thinking coil, although i have a accel remote coil. 14008 and its only a couple years old. It must be a heat related problem because when its cold its fine.

its a shame because it just dies whenever it feels like it. No warning of the sort, just shuts off and will not fire back up until its good and ready to. All aboard the Yankee express, next stop October.....

change your starter

Ouch. Reminds me of a pesky one of the same year/engine that a family member had...

Not trying to be a smart alec, but is it Red, and a 5 speed?

Anyway, in the case of the one I mentioned, we replaced the same things you already have.(Problem was compounded by it going way off time, then dying once warmed up. Cold, it ran like a top.)

Couple questions first, though. The engine turnes over, right? Just won't catch/fire? Are you sure it's getting fuel?

NOI

sure is i have 45 lbs of pressure, last year i replaced the stock pump with a h.o. walbro setup, great mod i reccomend it to all

before u buy a coil test it. there not hard to test all u need is a good amp metere.

I read the entire thread, and this is one of those that is about impossible over the net... however..

In all the years I have been mucking with these things, it sounds like you have a coil thats gone south, since you replaced the pick up and module. I cant recall if you have the VATT system on that one or not, but it COULD be acting up, and if that is the case, it will kill power to the coil as well.. Good money would be on the coil.....pick up a cheap factory coil, slap it on and see if that helps. IF it does, you have solved the issue, and you are good to go. The starter wont create the issue that you have, altho, heat soak would be the issue if you had a problem with it cranking. Sounds like the primary, or the secondarys are gone in the coil.....spend $12 and find out.

The EST doesn't limit the spark, it limits the timing. It's connected to the knock sensor and is part of the knock retard circuit. Haven't seen many of them go bad.

-Bruce

That would be an ohm meter.. The primary should show very low resistance on the order of 1 ohm give or take half of an ohm. The secondary should show on the order of 8k ohms give or take 2k.. That's for a stock coil. Your accel coil will be similiar meaning a low resistance on the primary and a high resistance on the secondary.. "high" meaning over 2-3k ohms.

-Bruce

j rambled on about something in :

The OP said it turns, won't catch/fire. It's not the starter.

NOI

Umm...Ohm meter..not an amp meter, unless he likes them fried..

CBHvac rambled on about something in :

It'll only fry if there's some power running thru it at that time.

If no power, then he'll get the same reading on both sides. a big fat Zero Amps.

Now, if there is power thru the coil, well, can you say, "Get the marshmallows and hot dogs!"?

NOI

TStang429 rambled on about something in :

no biggie. Hell, we had a laugh at it, and no one got hurt....

NOI

The EST monitors the knock sensor. If you think it's a problem, unplug it. Your engine will run. If the idle changes when you plug it in, your knock sensor is sensing knock.

You may have some bad wiring going on judging by some of your other psots. When you installed the coil, I'm assuming its an external coil, did you make sure to shorten the excess wires and shield them from heat? What may be ocuring is that your coil wiring (the actual +/- wires, not the distribtor wires) may be getting too hot and melting a bit from header heat or the like and melting a bit of the insulation onto the engine compartment causing the circut to ground out. E.g. If the wires are grounded no path to the coil is completed and no spark goes to your engines distributor. It could also be that you placed the coil near a heat source and it is rotting every time you get the engine temp up. My suggestion is that you replace the coil and the wiring and loom it away from all things hot. Preferably on the firewall near the center if there is room.

Computer nerds often use aerosol cans of "freeze spray", similar to a can of freon, to diagnose heat induced problems.

When the problem occurs, you selectively spray each suspect component, one at a time, with the spray to "remove the heat", if you will. Currently approved sprays come out of the can around -20 deg.F, IIRC.

You can buy this stuff at most computer stores, its usually near the cans of compressed air and the little nerdy vacuum cleaners.

Cheers, Steve

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Actually, little secret. That is the same stuff, without the internal tube running to the bottom of the can.

NOI