'02 XLT windows intermittent

Bob -

I posted about the same problem three or four weeks ago. Not much help was forthcoming. In my case, it was the left rear-seat window. I pulled the trim panel off the door so I could get to the mechanism. I confirmed that power was reaching the motor from either switch, and that the motor tried to turn but couldn't. I concluded that something was jammed in the reduction gear mechanism, probably a broken tooth chipped off a gear, but I didn't get a chance to open it up and confirm. The window suddenly started working again, and I concluded that by clonking around inside the door, I had probably jostled the obstruction enough to clear it. Probably only temporarily, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Anyway, I'm not sure I'd jump right into replacing the "computer", whatever and wherever that is.

Bill Jeffrey =========================

Bob wrote:

Bill,

I've done a little more research and here's what I've learned:

If power is getting to the motor, but it's jammed, then the lights in the car should dim (you must turn on the interior lights to see this, obviously). Also, if you look on ebay and search for -- explorer window motor repair -- (without any quotation marks) then you'll see some repair kits for sale. They all have these little plastic gizmos, and they're really inexpensive. I'm not sure what they're supposed to fix, but they claim that "usually the motor is okay", and it's these little plastic hoopajoos that are the culprit.

When you say that the motor has power, did you measure across the motor, or just from the chassis to one side of the motor? I've found some wiring diagrams, and there doesn't seem to be any type of controller or computer (my bad for suggesting there may be). What the diagrams do show is that the master control switch (driver's control) feeds the slave motor its path to the minus side of the battery (aka chassis or ground). The +12V is available locally at each door panel's switch. So, if the master driver's side switch can't feed its ground connection to the rear then the rear switch won't work either -- however one side of the motor will still get +12V (but of course the motor wont turn).

Here's a link to the wiring diagram. It's for an older Explorer, but it's probably the same as the newer ones:

Unfortunately, my windows don't fail that often. I may have to solder wires to the motors and bring them out as test points so that I can truly see if the failing motor is getting both +12V and its return (gnd/chassis) when it's not working.

I'll keep you (and the group) posted on any new info.

If you decide to get those little plastic thingy-ma-bobs from ebay, then let us know how they work.

Bob

Hey, that's good info about the repair kit, Bob. Thanks. I'll look for one.

In my case, I didn't see the lights dim. However, that may be because I tried it only a few times with the interior lights on, then turned them off at the dashboard switch since I had the door open for hours at a time.

With the trim panel off the door, I found that there is a connector that runs down to the motor/circuit breaker. I was able to stick my meter probes into the back side of the connector, onto the wires that run down to the motor, and see voltage as well as seeing the polarity reverse when I hit the Down switch as opposed to the Up switch. Your diagram shows the same connector.

Just for yucks, I also pulled this connector apart, and measured the resistance of the motor/circuit breaker. About one or two ohms, as I recall, confirming that the c/b was closed and the motor has continuity.

It was shortly after that when I discovered that I could hear the motor make a short clunk when I hit either the Up or Down button - the motor was trying to run, but there was no motion. In addition, the motor did NOT hum and run freely - it truly was not turning.

It was shortly after that when I discovered that if I used a mirror to see into the door cavity, there was a small motion of a big white (nylon) gear the first time I hit the Up or Down button. The gear moved a tiny bit - one way for Up, the other way for down - and then wouldn't move any further when the same button was pressed again.

Not knowing what else to do, I gave up and reassembled the door. I was actually driving to the mechanic when I absently pushed the Down button. And it worked! And still works, a few weeks later. I have no idea why.

You are right - the diagram hasn't changed much, except for wire numbers, connector numbers and so forth. The new diagram also shows the little LEDs that glow green under the switch.

Bill ===================

Bob wrote:

I had (have) the same problem with my left passenger door window on my

03XLT. It would work for a while and then stop for a while. I has scheduled to go to the dealer for the rear hatch window fix when it stopped again. While I was on my way to the dealer, I jiggled the window lock out switch, and the window started to work. I got to the dealer and told service about the problem. When I picked up the vehicle, they said that the problem was in the master switch, which they replaced. Great - it worked for 2 weeks. Now it's back to not working again. I'm going to call service and have them look at it again. Stay tuned!

'03 XLT . Had and still have the same problem with the left rear passenger window on mine also. I never tried to take it apart myself (warranty) but my dealer replaced the motor and that "fixed" it for about a week or so. I carried it in for the hatch repair and the window was working that day and of course two days latter it quit again......

/Richard

It looks like my left rear has stopped working permanently. I *WILL* find the problem, now. I listened carefully for any motor noise but didn't hear anything. So, hopefully it's just the driver's switch assembly that has failed.

Stay tuned. Film at 11.

Bob