Perhaps this has no bearing on what is happening but I bought a new battery a week or so ago.
Since then the car has gone from a normal idle to a faster idle every few seconds. With my foot lightly on the break at a light this is enough rpm increase to surge the car forward and I have to press harder.
Year and engine size might help with what's located close to the battery, cable arrangement and such........ I'd recheck to make sure I hadn't inadvertently left something disconnected or accidentally disconnected.
Please, folks.... there's been a myriad of changes since the inception of the Explorer and different options can change the placement and arrangement of things as well. Adding a few details to your request for help will lessen ypur downtime and may serve to reduce the frustration factor.
After all, we don't go to the doctor and tell him our foot hurts without at least pointing to the foot that hurts.
If you created an air leak when you moved the air intake parts and that leak is AFTER the MAF sensor (the aluminum thing in the middle of the tube from the air filter to the throttle body) that could be the cause. Any air that enters after the MAF doesn't get measured. Possibly it's an intermittent/variable leak causing the idle fluctuations.
91 would be the 4.0 cam in block. IIRC there will be the MAF and IAT (these would likely set the MIL) and some vacuum lines (small diameter plastic that got very brittle and easly damaged) involved. Additionally, there is a rad support mounted module and (I think) the SAW connector in that area.... My first inclination is to double check the battery installation to be sure I hadn't left anything amiss (since your problem came on the heels of the battery replacement). I do this for a living and the good Lord knows I ain't perfeck (sic). Remember that disturbing the battery cables can exacerbate any problems that may have been forming there. Early Explorers were famous for battery cable troubles..... this includes the connection(s) between the battery terminal and the cable itself, not just the connection twixt the cable end and battery.
Afterthought... if the MAF was jarred during the battery swap, theres a chance some "fur" swapped places. You can remove the Sensor from the MAF housing using a tamper proof torx bit.... IIRC, it's about a T20.... and checking for a coat on the sensing wires. Brake cleaner and some gentle (VERY gentle) work with a childs toothbrush (very soft toothbrush) will clean these up quite well in most cases.
Stupid question.... you didn't put the battery in backwards and find out the hard way? Sorry, it is a question that needed to be asked...
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