I'm about to store my 2000 Explorer for 3 or more months. I know I need to disconnect the batter, and add stabilizer to the fuel. I have some more questions.
Is there anything else I should do?
If the car is not being totally mothballed (that is to say if it is garaged or covered and you are not leaving town) you are just as far ahead to have it up on blocks and about once a month, start it up and run it to operating temp. After the engine is up to temp, "exercise" everything to distribute lubricants and such. Even better is to just drive it around the block.
If you are leaving the area, up on blocks is the better recommendation though three months isn't what you would call extended storage. Remove the plugs and pour a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe 1 or 2 tablespoons) and turn the motor over remembering to hang rags over the holes... reinstall the plugs. Of course, you would have change the motor oil before this step. When you return the motor to service, remove the fuel pump relay and crank the motor until oil pressure shows on the gauge. Your chosen tire pressure should be adequate.
Bear in mind where the car is being stored... if there are mice or other vermin, be sure they haven't taken up residence in the aircleaner or where-ever.
I routinely store my collector car for 6 months at a time, and have never used fuel stabilizer. Never had a problem, either.
I use a 'battery maintainer' to keep the battery peaked. The battery stays in the car year-round.
Not sure if you'll need a 'battery maintainer' for 3 months storage, but you'll probably need to charge the battery when you go to start the car after that storage. Maybe not, though.
As to the oil? If you have to crank it a while to get it started that will begin to pump oil through the engine.
I leave the normal pressure in the tires. No problem.
Alan Moorman
The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory.
Paul Fix
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Battery maintainer? Better idea - simply disconnect one battery cable.
I routinely store my 98 Ford Ranger for 6 months at a time in my gararge in Maine. Still has the OEM battery. Among other steps, I disconnect one of the battery cables as part of the routine. By doing so, I disconnect all the phantom loads, such as the radio preset memory and the engine computer - which are what discharges the battery. When I return in six months, I simply reconnect that battery, and it starts right up. I haven't yet had to boost it.
By contrast, a cheap battery maintainer can overcharge the battery - which is not a good thing.
Bill Jeffrey
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The vehicle could be stored anywhere from 2.5 months to 8 months. I just don't know yet how long. We are definitely leaving town and it will be stored outside. No one will be available to start it.
A battery maintainer won't overcharge a battery. It will only maintain a battery at the state of charge present when hooked up. Hence the name. Since the vehicle will be stored outdoors, unhooking or removing the battery would probably be best. H
Nope. Tried disconnecting the battery. Also tried taking it in the house for the winter (NOT on the concrete floor) and it always was pretty well discharged by the time I put it back in the car. I would charge it, and it still would not manage to get the car started until I recharged it.
The battery maintainer keeps the battery spunky and ready to go. No problems.
Well worth it!
Well, this is a 1950 Chrysler. 6 volt system.
No. That's the point of a 'battery maintainer' it isn't just a charger. It is specifically designed to maintain the battery and avoid gasification. It works.
Although I suppose a cheap one, like anything else, could be less than what's expected.
Your '98 may be enough different from an old '50, that you don't need the maintainer.
Alan Moorman
The only reason some people get lost in thought is because it's unfamiliar territory.
Paul Fix
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