1998 Ford Contour

[Akiliz wrote:]

If it's like the 2.0 Zetec in my Focus, there's a pin that screws into the bellhousing and fits into a hole on the flywheel to keep the engine locked at TDC. There's also a flat piece of steel that fits into slots on the ends of the camshafts to keep them locked into position so they will be phased correctly when you install the new belt. You should be able to buy the kit for about $20 online, google for it.

I'm not sure if that's the right one for your particular engine or not...

Don't forget all the ancillary parts that should be checked/replaced when the timing belt is changed such as the camshaft oil seals, the timing belt tensioner, (water pump?) etc.

Why is it necessary to use these special locking tools? I've changed the timing belt on my 95' Escort without having to lock the shafts in place. The service manual doesn't say anything about having to do this. Does it apply only to certain Ford models?

On the Contour L4 2.0 there's a tensioner and two idler pulleys that are usually replaced at the same time (there's also a hydraulic tensioner that's often not included in the kit). I suppose the belt can be installed if you are very patient and don't mind re-assembling several times but why spend all that extra time when there is a tool that makes it easy and correct the first time ?

Happy modeming, Bill K.

So if i just lock the coms how do i line up the pulleys? Theres no markings...

Berkshire Bill wrote:

By fixing the crankshaft at TDC and putting the bar through the slots in the cams, the pulleys are aligned properly with the crank, because the slots in the ends of the cams are cut offcenter. In other words, when you use the tools, there's only one way for the cams to be phased with respect to the crank and to each other.

As Berkshire Bill pointed out, you *can* do it without the tools but for an investment of only $20, vs a lot of time coming up with an alternative and less secure way, why not?

DOHC or SOHC

SOHC you can do without tools DOHC you have to line up the 2 camgears by installing a metal strip on the other side of the cams and lock the cranck

Mark Olson wrote:> markings...

Without the tools you also risk valve damage. The 2.0 is not supposed to be an interference motor, but in the real world it certainly is. If a piston is at TDC and one of the cams is turned for alignment, having a valve on that cylinder(usually exhaust?) open fully can tweak the valve enough that it won't seal.I found this out the hard way, and have seen it numerous times. Because of the valve train design, the cams won't stay in the proper alignment to install the belt, they turn a few degrees due to valve spring tension. It is possible to fashion a timing pin to hold the crank at TDC, then make cam retainers out of flat plate steel of the proper thickness. Buy or rent the proper tools.

That and make sure the crank is @ TDC by putting pin in flywheel

That's what the locks are for. The pin in the flywheel locates the crank, and the crossbar between the camshafts locates the cams. IMPOSSIBLE to get them out of time when locked with the service tool. Very difficult to get right the first time without it.