I was driving my van the other nite (e150 with 5.0) and when I fully
accellerated from a start, it shifted to third gear, I lost oil pressure,
why is that, and when I park it and it is not running for a few, when I
start it back up it is fine, what would make it do that?
Or.............all your oil is being pumped into the upper part of the engine
and your oil returns are restricted due to sludge buildup. Happens fairly
often. All the oil stays in the heads and can't drain back quickly enough. Stop
for a couple minutes and it catches up. Drive steady state low rpm and the
drain rate probably is equal to or better than the pump rate. Hit higher rpms
and pump rate exceeds drain back rate=oil pan runs out of oil.
DONT DO THAT!!!!
1. THere is a good chance that you loosen buildup in the oil passages and it
migrates to the bearing feeds, gets lodged and starves the bearing!
2 Also you would have to change the filter every couple hundred miles,
afterward, or it will bypass and not filter at all. Then you get "1"
The best bet is to thoroughly drain the oil... use a high quality oil which
will slowly dissolve sludge, change filter evry thousand.
Next time START with mobil 1 in a clean engine .. you simply would not
believe what the inside of your engine looks like after 150 k on mobil 1.
If you havent been using much oil.. quart or less per thousand, use mobil 1
10w30 and change filter every 500 miles and the oil at 2000
Use motorcraft or purolator pure one filter... from walmart or autozone or
next series change filter every 1000 and oil at 3000.
There's 2 reason to use mobil 1, it is very high detergent and it will lube
to the max possible even if there's oil starvation at one point or another.
Overlooked is the effect of ash point (temp where oil carbonizes) on oil
starvation. If oil is deficient, the temp rises on the friction surface and
long before the metals degrade, the oil that IS there may start to
carbonize... this causes further problems because this typiclly happens at
any rough point such as a previous groove, which causes that area to heat
more because carbon ash is an insulator.
Also I recommend you borrow or buy a mech gauge and find out what your oil
press really is.
THAT is very pertinent info. And we should have got that first.
And it pretty much changes everything.
If it doesnt knock or valve clatter the chances it's sludged up are pretty
Definitely get the mech oil pressure gage ... you may have a failing pump.
If you feel up to it, pull the easiest valve cover, it will reflect the oil
change history... at least, pull the screen under the PCV valve, if you
havent changed it and it's fairly clean, the engine is unlikely to be
If you HAVE to drive it.. the mobil 1 is still smart, and you can do what I
said before. JUst pay attention to how quick the oil turns dark. Not
sludged, it should remain fairly clear up to 500 miles
I'd ask around for the name of a good independent mechanic once you have the
gauge installed. It's tough to come up with the exact diagnosis - as shown
by this thread
The engine does have a little tap to it, sounds like a lifter, but it isnt
loud, it has plenty of power, just that little tap that has been there over
three years now (I knew who had it before me and before them)
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