We had a cam sensor go in a car of ours. Other than the MIL light the only
real thing we noticed was it took significantly more cranking to start.
Although we didn't install it ourselves, it wasn't a big deal and the part
was only like $30.
Which engine does your Taurus have? The 12V base engine or the 24V upgrade?
I could check the service manual and see how much work it requires for your
The sensor is not hard to change and as previously quoted, only about 30
bucks. It is kind of buried on the 3.0 Vulcan under the plastic ductwork
that carries the spark plug wires. If the rotor of the sensor shattered,
you need to clean out all the little pieces left behind. Hopefully the
aluminum stator piece was not damaged by the shrapnel from the rotor.
Changing the stator piece is a bit more work. Mine was slightly bent to the
point where it would have cause contact with the new rotor, but I was able
to gently bend it back with some strong needle nose pliers without having to
I did notice a notable lack of power running in the default mode that the
engine management systems goes into without the sensor, so its definitely
================================I think the sensor is to time the fuel injectors. I've change a few of them.
Every one I've seen, the drive was bad too. I'm not really sure about long
term effects, the cars always seemed to run ok with a bad sensor though.
They arent that hard to change, you might get a second opinion on the price
from another shop. $600 is too much.
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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The computer is programmed to "guess" at the timing, which works
amazingly well enough to keep the car running. You will notice some
misfires, and sometimes hard starting. But you should get it fixed,
otherwise you might find some catalyst damage over the long run
because the mixture is not correct. I suspect this may be why I am
now getting a bank 2 catalyst efficiency code; I let mine go too long.
But that may just be coincidence.
My local Ford dealer in Denver replaced both the synchronizer and the
sensor (mine is a 97) for $350. I'm not sure if there is a difference
in the 98, but they are probably similar. When it fails, the sensor
magnet starts to come apart and the pieces damage the synchronizer.
My sensor & synchronizer failed again after 11,500 miles which Ford
corrected at no charge. I'm hoping that this doesn't show a trend,
although I think there may be a quality problem with the Ford
<pre wrap="">Hi,<br><br>This has been asked before with no
response:<br><br>What will happen if you run the car with the cam sensor
off?<br><br>Anyone have a guess? I guess the engine runs fine but there is
a<br>slight increase in emissions and decrease in performance. Any long<br>term
bad effects. The car is worth maybe $2800 and they want $600<br></pre>
<pre wrap="">replacing the sensor.<br><br>Thanks<br></pre>
<span -moz-smiley="s2"><span> :-( </span></span> $350 ! I was afraid
of that........ I finally got tied of looking at the mil code and decided
to replace the sensor only to find the rotor in 50 pieces. Oh well, I stick
it on the list behind the cat, power steering line, and motor mounts.
What i want to know is why the engine management system needs
a cam sensor at all? Non of the early vulcan 3.0's had them. And they ran
fine. What's changed on the latter model 3.0's that the computer needs
more information or go into limp mode? Was it 96 or 98 when they made the
It looks like the 95 is EEC-IV, while the 96 is EEC-V. That probably
coincides with going to the OBD-II diagnostic system.
The 96 Taurus has a camshaft position sensor, but it is called a
"cylinder identification sensor". They must have cleaned up the
wording for 97 and later. I didn't see a sensor for 95 & previous.
My guess is that the valve timing in the 3.0 liter engine is such that
it improves performance and emissions if the fuel is injected at just
the right time. Otherwise, the vapor condenses and you get misfires.
They say this is bad for the catalyst, but I find that hard to
believe. Contaminants such as heavy metals are bad for catalysts.
Ford also went nuts with the catalyst design in those models, with
several converters packaged in the entire assembly and sensors
monitoring the overall efficiency. This gives rise to the P0430 error
which shows up. To me, that is just a nuisance error, because it will
easily pass the emissions test in Denver with a marginal efficiency
showing up in the computer. But, unfortunately, the idiot light is
turned on and becomes an annoyance.
I'm thinking of taping some black electrical tape over the dash area
to cover up the annoyance. I'll check it weekly with the reader to
see if any errors other than the P0430 error occur.
I have ordered a PC-based B&B "Autotap" diagnostic system to analyze
the problems with this car. If I can find the source of the problem,
then I am money ahead, rather than take it to the dealer and have them
throw parts at it. I've heard of people spending over $1200 for this
problem and the error still shows up.
I ordered the basic unit, which includes the USB interface to the
OBD-II connector and basic software to run on the laptop. Then, I
added the Ford powertrain specific add-on software. My logic was that
if I buy another US make of car, I'll just get the add-on for that
This looks like it should give the info I need, and they say it can
record the trip, which is something that the dealer techs never bother
to do - thus throw parts at a problem. :-)
It should ship on Monday, I'll keep you posted. I'm anxious to see
just what's in that mysterious computer...
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