I finally have to change the rotors, they're too close to the limits to turn, and the right rotor isn't just warped, it's a steel Pringle Chip. Pulsing to the point it's castering on braking...
The Haynes manual is utterly worthless - It's been so wrong, so many times, if it tells me the weather I take a look out the window... (Surprise! NOT.)
I know the basics cold. Just need the fine details like the right bearing preload (tighten till dragging hard and back off a quarter turn?) and any fun things to watch out for. And what size is the castle nut? So I can make sure I have (or can go get) the right socket /before/ starting.
I can't tell you what the size of that spindle nut is. I just havent done a brake job in a long time on one of those. Last I checked it was about 24MM or 1 1/8-1/16". If I were you, I would just pop the dust cap off at the parts store, or at home, and do a size test.
I can tell you that according to the WSM you only want to put 17 in/lb of torque on that nut, and it wants you to torque it, and loosen it 180*, then retorque it to 17 in/lb. Of course you know to only torque it with the rotor spinning.
Okay, for lack of anything definitive that was the plan anyway. ;-) And of course, the dust cap didn't want to "just pop off", I'll have to go find my BIG pump pliers.
With the mushroom flare on the end of the factory grease cap, it almost looks like they would have a big SST to slip over it and give a quick twist to pop it off. I might warm up the welder and modify a chunk of Unistrut into a big Church Key for the purpose...
Just like I fabricated an On-The-Car AC Compressor Clutch Pulley Puller, rather than totally dismantle the front end of the van when the clutch idler bearing and clutch flex plate disintegrated.
Of course they put the (damn) compressor on the very bottom with no room to get at the front of it - the engineers only worry about ease of manufacture, ease of repair never crosses their minds....
Thanks, I finally found that in the front section of the Haynes. Now I have to find where my little inch-pound torque wrench went, or go and get another one.
(I only bought it to mollify Electrical Inspectors when they ask if those lugs and bolted connections in the new service panel were torqued properly... "Yes, and here's the torque wrench I used!")
Now for the real secret of life: How do you keep that beastie Twin I Beam from devouring front tires 5X faster than the rears?
The alignment is set right, I've checked axle weights and I'm not overloaded. (By very much...) And I don't make a habit of hitting curbs or potholes. It probably could use a fresh set of shocks just based on 130K on the clock, but that can /not/ be all of it.
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