I finally have to change the rotors, they're too close to the limits
to turn, and the right rotor isn't just warped, it's a steel Pringle
Chip. Pulsing to the point it's castering on braking...
The Haynes manual is utterly worthless - It's been so wrong, so many
times, if it tells me the weather I take a look out the window...
I know the basics cold. Just need the fine details like the right
bearing preload (tighten till dragging hard and back off a quarter
turn?) and any fun things to watch out for. And what size is the
castle nut? So I can make sure I have (or can go get) the right
socket /before/ starting.
--<< Bruce >>--
I can't tell you what the size of that spindle nut is. I just havent done a
brake job in a long time on one of those. Last I checked it was about 24MM
or 1 1/8-1/16". If I were you, I would just pop the dust cap off at the
parts store, or at home, and do a size test.
I can tell you that according to the WSM you only want to put 17 in/lb of
torque on that nut, and it wants you to torque it, and loosen it 180*, then
retorque it to 17 in/lb. Of course you know to only torque it with the rotor
Okay, for lack of anything definitive that was the plan anyway. ;-)
And of course, the dust cap didn't want to "just pop off", I'll have
to go find my BIG pump pliers.
With the mushroom flare on the end of the factory grease cap, it
almost looks like they would have a big SST to slip over it and give a
quick twist to pop it off. I might warm up the welder and modify a
chunk of Unistrut into a big Church Key for the purpose...
Just like I fabricated an On-The-Car AC Compressor Clutch Pulley
Puller, rather than totally dismantle the front end of the van when
the clutch idler bearing and clutch flex plate disintegrated.
Of course they put the (damn) compressor on the very bottom with no
room to get at the front of it - the engineers only worry about ease
of manufacture, ease of repair never crosses their minds....
Thanks, I finally found that in the front section of the Haynes.
Now I have to find where my little inch-pound torque wrench went, or
go and get another one.
(I only bought it to mollify Electrical Inspectors when they ask if
those lugs and bolted connections in the new service panel were
torqued properly... "Yes, and here's the torque wrench I used!")
Now for the real secret of life: How do you keep that beastie Twin
I Beam from devouring front tires 5X faster than the rears?
The alignment is set right, I've checked axle weights and I'm not
overloaded. (By very much...) And I don't make a habit of hitting
curbs or potholes. It probably could use a fresh set of shocks just
based on 130K on the clock, but that can /not/ be all of it.
--<< Bruce >>--
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