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Periodic Overheating Not Solved Again

OK, here's the story....

New radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, 60% clean antifreeze. All checked out OK.

Drove 5 miles, then sat the drive-thru for 3-4 minutes. Temp started climbing again. Didn't get as hot as before, but still not right. Revving the engine caused it to drop a little but not down where it should be.

Engine off. Fan clutch had right amount of resistance.

Inlet hose from thermostat to radiator hot and pressurized. Plenty of pressure at the cap. Hose from radiator outlet to engine pressurized but cold.

They ain't much left but the water pump. Belt is grabbing the pulley fine. I'm guessing that the water pump impeller has broken down.

Any other ideas, fellers before I rip into it on Saturday?

Labor and parts at the garage is $380. Same pump off the shelf is $60.

I have not looked into the process... I guess I'll need some way to keep all the pulley lined up. Should be "fun."

Reply to
Newgene McMensa
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Not really.

Being you didn't make any effort to give the year, model and engine size, I really doubt anyone could give an educated guess.

-bruce snipped-for-privacy@ripco.com

Reply to
Bruce Esquibel

I believe it's still his early nineties 3.0 AeroScare.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

A water pump is a water pump

Reply to
larrys.monkey.farm

Try to install a small block chevy pump on that AeroScare - - - - ANd I've seen the (plastic) impellers on some fords totally "explode" at about 4000 engine RPM (2.5 duratec) and I.ve seen water pump impellers "slip" on the shaft when hot (Chrysler slant six) including one of each on my own vehicles - as well as on numerous customer vehicles.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

That's my thought, too. Coolant is not circulating, so to me that means either the pump is failing or something is blocking the flow. Thermostat opens at the right temp.

I reckon I can't complain about getting 21 years and 150K miles (8000 Canadian) out of the pump.

I'll say one thing about Ford, original parts are head and shoulders above any other car I've had. Original radiator went 17 years.

Only bad parts I have seen are the AC compressor and everything in the heater circuit.

Of course the most important part - radio/cassette - works like new.

Reply to
Newgene McMensa

That's my thought, too. Coolant is not circulating, so to me that means either the pump is failing or something is blocking the flow. Thermostat opens at the right temp.

I reckon I can't complain about getting 21 years and 150K miles (8000 Canadian) out of the pump.

I'll say one thing about Ford, original parts are head and shoulders above any other car I've had. Original radiator went 17 years.

Only bad parts I have seen are the AC compressor and everything in the heater circuit.

Of course the most important part - radio/cassette - works like new.

Reply to
Newgene McMensa

Back to the cooling again. Any simple way to tell if the water pump is going bad in thus aeroscare before giving it over to mr monkeywrench?

Part 2... Obd2 says vacuum leak on side 1. I checked all connections and hoses i can see. Whats next ti check?

Reply to
outhousefiesta

Check your local scrapyard for vacancies.

As a former Aeroscare owner (2 of them) - and I REALLY liked them both

- there comes a time to let a dead horse lie down. Mine both went past 240,000km before that time came - and were no longer in my care when that happened.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

Yep, im thinking i got my money out of it. Heater, ac bad now. PS never stopped squealing after new one installed. upholstry non existant after converted to hauling lumber. Worst if all, the cigarette lighter failed. Lol.

Even all that i can live with. The difficult access to plugs and most engine parts i wont miss.

Reply to
outhousefiesta

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