RE: 87 Aerostar Alternator

Those of you who said that my problem was brushes, stand and take a bow. One brush was just a small triangle when I removed them.

Whoever designed this vehicle, should be shot. The bottom alternator bolt is a bi_ch to remove. I used a 6" and two 12" extensions and two universals to remove it. Pulled the passenger compartment cover and unbolted it from there. I removed the bracket, drilled out the threaded portion and used a piece of 7/16" ready rod with nuts on both sides to re-install. When the bracket is removed, you can actually reach the passenger side plugs from the front.

Anyway, the battery was dead when I tried to start it. I put charger on Bat with the negative clamp removed. Then I checked for drain from post to clamp and found a 4.6 amp current. Anyone know from past experience what this drain might be? Everything is off, doors closed, so no switches are closed. When I touch clamp to post, I can't hear any sounds of something using power.

Reply to
Cosmopolite
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You're welcome... allus V-2 rocket scientists have learned to recognize the symptoms.

OTOH, the Alternator on the earlier 3.0 Vulcan is a cinch!

FYI: For 'long-bolts' that seem to tighten up during removal... answer is patience, penetrating oil, and running em in and out a few times

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

Yup... a 15 minute job if you've ever done it before.

Rob

Reply to
trainfan1

By the third time I had mine out of my '90, it was less than a 10 minute job. Replaced the brushes - then the regulator - and another regulator - and finally put in a used unit (recent reman from the wreckers) when I determined the rotor had a "flying short". It shorted only at speed.

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Reply to
clare at snyder.on.ca

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LOL. That is my problem now, replaced brushes and only get 12.56 V on charge, I think that the regulator is gone. Will take to UAP tomorrow and have it tested.

Reply to
Cosmopolite

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