this is a thinking cap problem...

"c palmer" wrote: 1993 lincoln T.C. 4.6L.

on cruise control for about an hour, the engine will go to stumbling and missing, but will idle nicely if you stop on the side of the road. when accelerating, it will miss badly. a fuel system problem has been ruled out.

it appears to be temperature related - if you let the car cool off for a few minutes, it will run great until 15 to 20 minutes down the road and the same symptoms appear.

has anyone had this happen and can tell me where to look. x-ray diagnosis didn't turn up anything. __________________________________________________

Over the years, every time I have had intermittent ignition problems related to temperature or time of operation, it was a failing ignition module.

Rodan.

___________________________________

Reply to
Rodan
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No codes even when it misses badly? hmmmm. 15K on the plugs and wires isn't exactly new. Im with Tom. Have you even looked at the wires, pulled them out of those deep, water and gunk collector holes they're in? Its amazing how a 4.6 can kill wires and plugs. Did you use the 32pp plugs?(iirc) Start with the basics :)Someone mentioned a crank sensor. I've seen them cause a no start but not a miss on a cv but you never know....Try to get it to set a miss code....or some code :)

Reply to
ShoeSaleman

That reference to CC keeps coming up . Had a problem with my 95 taurus about 3 years ago, where it seemed to fall on it's face for about half a second just after I switch CC on; then recovered and worked okay.

Next trip, it ran fine till I switched CC on... few seconds later it died completely and wouldnt restart till a few minutes went by. I avoided switching on CC again till I replaced the servo unit. Havent had that problem since.

Dunno if that's your problem but sounds a little similar. Note the effect lingered after key was off-then on. a headscratcher.

Reply to
Backyard Mechanic

This is true... but, the 4.6 doesn't have an ignition module per se. The ignition is controlled by the PCM. It could be the problem but that would be the first time I've seen or heard of it on one of these cars. Curtis, If you have definately ruled out the ignition system, move on to the fuel pressure. Use a gauge with a long hose taped to the outside of the windshield.

Reply to
Tom Adkins

hi guys - i really do appreciate your inputs.

i took the car on a 350 mile trip today. it ran great, with not a hint of a problem.

cleared computer before i left, so if anything happened, it would be in memory, but got no codes when i got back home.

the only variable that was different was that it was 91=BA sunday and today, it was 65=BA going one way and 55=BA on the return trip.

gas mileage normally runs about 23 - 24 mpg and this time, the computer said it was getting 25.1mpg.

still scratching my head, but please keep this problem i have in mind if i get more symptoms to add to the mix.

right now, i'm leaning toward - temp problem causing a module to intermittently fail, but the summer is still young......

thanks again,

~ curtis

knowledge is power - growing old is mandatory - growing wise is optional = "Many more men die with prostate cancer than of it. Growing old is invariably fatal. Prostate cancer is only sometimes so."

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Reply to
c palmer

Pardon me here Krusty, But what is CC? Coming from hp you learn a lot of acronyms (Spelling) but I don't know this one CC?

Gerald

Reply to
gerald2003r

Oh sorry... Cruise control... Ouch!

Gerald

Reply to
gerald2003r

Did you do something to get it to run well? Did you find a final solution? If not and it ran well today it sounds like an electrical connection to me... Heat and moisture can change the way contacts adhere to each other. Cleaning the electrical contacts on older cars I think will help allot. There are many and some are weatherized but some are not. It's a chore for the older car person. They are making it easier as time goes on with weatherized connectors but most were meant for vital connections in the 1990's 2000's. shame really!

Gerald

Reply to
gerald2003r

From: snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (gerald2003r)

Did you do something to get it to run well? Did you find a final solution? If not and it ran well today it sounds like an electrical connection to me... Heat and moisture can change the way contacts adhere to each other. Cleaning the electrical contacts on older cars I think will help allot. There are many and some are weatherized but some are not. It's a chore for the older car person. They are making it easier as time goes on with weatherized connectors but most were meant for vital connections in the 1990's 2000's. shame really! Gerald ======= only joker in the deck is that when before my dad died, he had a wreck with it in 1996. he pulled out and it took the hit on the driver's front fender and wheel. it was not a head on crash.

i also know that a hard mechanical jolt from a wreck can do strange things to cars that you normally don't think about. electrial connectors get jarred. wires get pinched or pushed into an area that will cause the coating to rub off of them after many miles of travel. not the usual stuff.

(see p.s. post)

i guess i'm keeping the car for memories, normally, not my style.

but, in answer to your questions, no, i haven't done anything to the car other then clear the computer memory in order to make sure there were no left over codes from something that may have been stuck in there.

again, used the car to go to the local VA clinic and did some running around the city. about 50 miles - ran great. but the temp is only in the low 70's. that is what i want to keep my eye on- the raising temps

- and see if the problem comes back.

~ curtis ======= p.s. post......

unrelated - but interesting - i had an accident investigator on the police force tell me that in an accident, that a vehicles involved in an accident may get hit three times are higher - depending on the speed at the time. i asked him to explain this to me.

here is what he said.

let's say you are rear ended. you get hit by the vehicle from behind - that impact number one.

as your vehicle is push forward, the vehicle that hit you transferred part of it's energy into you and for a split second, it slowed down and you moved away from the vehicle behind and there is a distance between you.

now, impact number two - after your impact, your vehicle is going to slow down and the vehicle behind is still traveling at a faster rate than you are - assuming you were stopped. so, it will ram you again, transferring more energy and causing your vehicle to shoot forward.

impact number three - basically the same as impact number two.

where this comes into play is personal injury. the body is responding from the initial hit and then is struck again, and again, very fast. while your body is responding to the first hit, it get hits again. this causes the body to snap around and give the whiplash effect, that you hear of.

where you really notice this effect that he was describing is at a train switching yard. you have see and hear the boxcar as it hit the car is joining up to a couple of times at least.

knowledge is power - growing old is mandatory - growing wise is optional "Many more men die with prostate cancer than of it. Growing old is invariably fatal. Prostate cancer is only sometimes so."

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Reply to
c palmer

crank position sensor will do that and not give a code....but dont quote me..lucas

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Reply to
ds549

Good idea!

Gerald

Reply to
gerald2003r

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